Hong Kong Travel

Hotels
Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong (https://www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/) Central $$$$
Hong Kong’s classiest luxury hotel. Rooms to die for, full-service spa, and outdoor lap and infinity pools with dramatic harbor views. Connected to high-end ifc mall, just a short walk from the Star Ferry and Hong Kong Station with train service to the airport. (852) 3196 8333

Mandarin Oriental (https://www.mandarinoriental.com/hong-kong/victoria-harbour/luxury-hotel) Central $$$$
Opened in 1963 as Mandarin Oriental’s first hotel and still its flagship property. Updated rooms include those with harbor views, complete with binoculars. Famous for its clubby Captain’s Bar along with a wide range of dining and wining venues and cake shop with fabulous chocolate creations. Smack-dab in the middle of Central. (852) 2522 0111

Island Shangri-La (http://www.shangri-la.com/hongkong/islandshangrila/) Central $$$
A dazzling luxury hotel, chock full with Viennese chandeliers, artistic flower arrangements and artwork, including the world’s largest silk landscape painting. Rooms face the harbor or The Peak. Spa, outdoor pool and health club with free yoga classes. Connected to Pacific Place mall, next to Hong Kong Park. (852) 2877 3838

The Upper House (https://www.upperhouse.com/en/the-house) Central $$$
Hong Kong’s coolest business hotel. Check-in is paperless, completed on iPads in huge guest rooms overlooking the city or harbor. Free amenities include a “maxi-bar” stocked with drinks (including beer) and snacks, two house bikes for tooling around the city and weekend yoga lessons. Connected to Pacific Place mall, between Central and Wan Chai. (852) 2918 1838

Lan Kwai Fong Hotel @ Kau U Fung (https://www.lankwaifonghotel.com.hk/en-gb) Sheung Wan $$
Reasonable yet chic, with a hip twist on traditional Chinese décor. Higher-priced rooms even have partial harbor views between buildings. A great location in SheungWan neighborhood, near the Graham Street produce market, Hollywood Road and SoHo with its bars and ethnic restaurants. (852) 3650 0000

Hotel Indigo (https://www.ihg.com/hotelindigo/hotels/us/en/hong-kong/hkgin/hoteldetail) Wan Chai $$
A hipster’s hotel in bustling Wan Chai, near nightlife, historic buildings and markets. Colorfully decorated rooms and public spaces embrace the lively neighborhood (such as murals of trams), plus a fitness center and a glass-bottom rooftop pool that juts out from the hotel, giving the illusion of swimming in space. (852) 859-5095

Lanson Place Hotel (https://www.hongkong.lansonplace.com/) Causeway Bay $$
A home-away-from-home for road warriors. Kitchenettes (complete with a welcome basket of goodies), free use of a smartphone with unlimited data and international calls, and a friendly staff. Best rooms face Victoria Park. (852) 3477 6888

InterContinental Hong Kong (https://hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com/en/) Tsim Sha Tsui $$$$
Located right on water’s edge, with great harbor views from its Lobby Lounge, award-winning restaurants and 70% of its rooms. A state-of-the-art spa, free yoga, pilates and tai classes, and an infinity pool so close to the harbor you feel like you could dive right in. (852) 2721 1211

The Peninsula Hong Kong (https://hongkong.peninsula.com/en/default) Tsim Sha Tsui $$$$
Hong Kong’s most historic hotel, built in 1928 and with a fleet of Rolls Royces out front and an ornate lobby that’s Hong Kong’s best for afternoon tea. Rooms, with and without harbor views, are classically modern and thoughtfully laid out. Gorgeous indoor pool with sun terrace, health club and spa, and a full roster of activities, from private helicopter rides to children’s cooking classes. (852) 2920 2888

The Luxe Manor http://www.theluxemanor.com/default-en.html) Tsim Sha Tsui $$$
A boutique hotel with a quirky charm, from picture frames framing nothing to faux fireplaces to themed suites (like the Mirage with its playful surrealistic decor). Its over-the-top Dada Bar + Lounge, with live music most nights, plays homage to the Dadaism art movement. (852) 3763 8778

The Mira Hong Kong (http://www.themirahotel.com/) Tsim Sha Tsui $$$
Ubercool urban oasis, with vibrant colors and an almost futuristic design. Spa, indoor pool, free pocket Wi-Fi devices for connection everywhere, and a great location on Nathan Road across from Kowloon Park. (852) 2368 1111

The Salisbury YMCA (http://www.ymcahk.org.hk/thesalisbury/en/home/index.html) Tsim Sha Tsui $
Hong Kong’s best bang for your buck, near the waterfront and Star Ferry. Pricier rooms with great harbor views. Indoor swimming pools (including a lap pool and children’s pool), a fitness center complete with climbing walls, inexpensive restaurants and a playground make it tops also for families. (852) 2268 7000

Hotel ICON (https://www.hotel-icon.com/) Tsim Sha Tsui East $$$
A green, style-conscious hotel, from its vertical swirl of plants above the front desk with paperless check-in to 100% electric shuttle buses providing free transportation to Tsim Sha Tsui subway station. Outdoor pool with harbor views, spa, gym, in-room smartphones offering free international calls, and complimentary minibars. The hotel doubles as a learning center for students studying tourism and management. (852) 3400 1000

The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong (http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/china/hong-kong#Hotel) West Kowloon $$$$
The world’s highest hotel (reception is on the 102nd floor), along with the world’s highest spa, pool and bar, making this the best views in town. Rooms are luxurious, as is pretty much everything else about this stunning property. In West Kowloon, near Kowloon Station with train service to the airport. In the still-developing West Kowloon Cultural District. (852) 2263 2263

W Hong Kong (http://www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1965&EM=VTY_WH_1965_hongkong_overview) West Kowloon $$$
The anti-hotel, with whimsical names for its services and facilities. Room service is Whatever/Whenever; instead of the usual lobby lounge there’s the Woobar with DJ; the WET is a stunning 76th-floor outdoor pool. Some rooms with harbor views. (852) 3717 2222

Restaurants
The French Window (http://www.miradining.com/french-window/) Central $$$$
Creative interpretations of classic French and European cuisine, with fantastic harbor views in a sleek and airy contemporary setting. In ifc mall. (852) 2393 3812

Duddell’s (https://www.duddells.co/home/en/) Central $$$
Classic Cantonese food in a crisply modern dining room filled with changing artwork, plus a more casual garden terrace. Come for dim sum, the weekend brunch with free-flowing champagne and cocktails, signature dishes like crispy salted chicken, or the chef’s tasting menu. (852) 2525 9191

Mott 32 (https://www.mott32.com/) Central $$$
Primarily Cantonese, but with signature Beijing and spicy Szechuan dishes as well. Roasted Peking duck, suckling pig, barbequed pork, dim sum, and an intriguing selection of cocktails. Located in a bank basement in Central’s financial district, with an edgy New York industrial look married with Chinese elements, but it’s the food that takes center stage. (852) 2885 8688

Isola Bar & Grill (https://gaiagroup.com.hk/restaurant/isola/ ) Central $$
Waterfront Italian restaurant with large outdoor terrace overlooking the harbor, but even its spacious interior with floor-to-ceiling windows seems cheerful on a dismal day. A bustling open kitchen turns out handmade pastas, stone-baked pizzas and char-grilled or baked meats and seafood. (852) 2383 8765

City Hall Maxim’s Palace (http://www.maxims.com.hk/en/main.asp) Central $
Cantonese restaurant located in city hall and popular for official and family banquets, as well as for dim sum still offered from trolleys. No reservations accepted in this huge dining hall with harbor views, but the line moves fast. (852) 2521 1303

Lin Heung Tea House (no website) Central $
This is the real deal, with women pushing trolleys of dim sum through the packed 100-year-old restaurant. You’ll have to wait for a seat and pay with cash, but there aren’t many places still like this. (852) 2544 4556

Happy Paradise (https://www.happyparadise.hk/ ) Central $
Pink and blue lighting gives a jolt of vitality to this retro bar/eatery that serves up a limited menu of creative Chinese dishes borrowing from China’s various regions and Chinese-influenced cocktails. Open only for dinner. In Central’s SoHo district. (852) 2816 2118

208 Duecento Otto (https://www.208.com.hk/) Sheung Wan $$
Italian eatery on the west end of Hollywood Road near antique stores. Serving signature Napoletana pizzas at the casual first-floor bar and more substantial meals in a fancier setting on the second. Especially popular for its weekend brunch buffet. (852) 2549 0208

The Pawn (http://www.thepawn.com.hk/) Wan Chai $$
Traditional and modern British cuisine in an historic 1888 building that once housed a Chinese pawnshop. The upstairs bar has a balcony overlooking streetcars clanging past on Johnston Road. (852) 2866 3444

Tsui Wah (www.tsuiwahrestaurant.com) Causeway Bay $
Serving Hong Kong comfort food since 1967 and now with branches throughout Hong Kong and beyond. Sizzing king prawns with fried noodles, jumbo hot dogs, Malaysian beef brisket curry with rice and chicken wings among the many choices on the eclectic menu. Most branches open to the wee hours, or, like this one on Cannon Street, open 24 hours. (852 2573 4338

Felix (https://hongkong.peninsula.com/en/fine-dining/felix) Tsim Sha Tsui $$$-$$$$
The Philippe Starck-designed Felix opened in 1994 but is still a trendsetter despite many newcomers. Offering contemporary European cuisine, an avant-garde setting, stunning views, one of world’s smallest discos and slightly exhibitionist bathrooms. (852) 2696 6778

Hutong (https://www.hutong.com.hk/experience) Tsim Sha Tsui $$$
Taking its name from the ancient alley once common in Beijing’s courtyard neighborhoods, Hutong offers northern Chinese food with a twist. Signature dishes range from crispy deboned lamb ribs to soft-shelled crab with Szechuan red chili. Great views of Tsim Sha Tsui and the harbor. (852) 3428 8342

Tosca (http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/china/hong-kong/dining/tosca) West Kowloon $$$$
Innovative Italian cuisine on the 102nd floor of the world’s highest hotel, with a dramatic setting and out-of-this-world views of the harbor toward Hong Kong Island. (852) 2263 2270

The Peak Lookout (http://www.peaklookout.com.hk/) The Peak $$-$$$
Victoria Peak with its great views attracts visitors from around the world, reflected in this little gem’s international menu offering everything from Asian fare to tandoori to sandwiches and soup. Indoor seating in a rustic former tram station and an outdoor terrace with views over the South China Sea. Live music nightly. (852) 2849 1000

The Verandah (https://www.therepulsebay.com/en/dining/verandah/) Repulse Bay $$$-$$$$
The best place in town for a refined Sunday brunch, complete with a jazz band. Its colonial-era setting, with ceiling fans, starched tablecloths and impeccable service, make it also destination dining for fine Continental contemporary and classic cuisine. (852) 2292 2822

Shopping
A-Man Hing Cheong Co. (https://www.tailorhk.com; can’t find a direct website) Central
One of Hong Kong’s most respected tailors, established in 1898. Uses mostly British and Italian fabrics for its suits, tuxedos and other men’s clothing. In the Mandarin Oriental’s shopping arcade. (852) 2522 3336

Li Yuen Street East & West (http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/shop/where-to-shop/street-markets-and-shopping-streets/li-yuen-street-east-and-west.jsp) Central
Two parallel, sloping pedestrian alleyways lined with stalls selling Chinese jackets, toys, baby clothes, watches, underclothing and other goods to tourists and to locals on their way to work. No phone number

Lane Crawford http://www.lanecrawford.com/info/about-us/) Central
An upscale local department store, founded in 1850. Its flagship store, located in classy ifc mall, offers one of the largest assortments of designer brands in Asia. (852) 2118 3388

Hanart TZ Gallery (http://www.hanart.com/?lang=en) Central
A pioneer in Hong Kong’s burgeoning art gallery market. Experimental and contemporary art from mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan. One of several prominent galleries located in the Pedder Building. (852) 2526 9019

Shanghai Tang (https://www.shanghaitang.com/en-us/store/shanghai-tang-mansion-hong-kong) Central
The leader of the pack when it comes to chic Chinese clothing, accessories and decorative household goods, whether it’s a fuchsia-colored traditional jacket, a dress that combines classic Chinese with contemporary styles or a silk-embossed picture frame. Shanghai tailors on hand for custom-made clothing. There are branches, but its flagship on Duddell Street location is the largest. (852) 2525 7333

PMQ (http://www.pmq.org.hk/) Sheung Wan
What once served as the Police Married Quarters is now one of Hong Kong’s hottest shopping destinations. A creative hub, with clothing and goods created by local designers, plus workshops, artist studios, pop-up stores, bookstores, exhibitions, cafes and restaurants. (852) 2870 2335

Cat Street (http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/shop/where-to-shop/street-markets-and-shopping-streets/cat-street.jsp) Sheung Wan
Sidewalk vendors selling snuff bottles, curios, reproductions and kitsch, from Mao watches and Red Army memorabilia to teapots. Full-fledged reputable shops also sell authentic Qing and Ming dynasty antiques. Officially called Upper Lascar Row but known as Cat Street, near the western end of Hollywood Road with its many antique stores. (no phone)

Chinese Arts & Crafts (https://www.cachk.com/; Chinese only) Wan Chai
Hong Kong’s best for high-quality Chinese silk jackets, porcelain, jade jewelry, embroidered tablecloths and other Chinese products. (852) 2827 6667

Goods of Desire (https://god.com.hk/) Causeway Bay
Unique and edgy Hong Kong goods and souvenirs (its store logo is G.O.D. in case you had any doubts). Coffee mugs, placemats, pillows, T-shirts and more, many emblazoned with local photos or Hong Kong-themed graphic designs such as cute panda faces or calligraphy. Branches in PMQ, Stanley and even the airport, but its Causeway Bay location is the largest. (852) 2890 5555

Joyce Warehouse (http://www.joyce.com/) Ap Lei Chau
Founded in the 1970s to bring European fashions to Hong Kong, Joyce remains a frontrunner for international designerwear, from Alexander McQueen to Alexander Wang. Bargain hunters in the know, however, head to this discount store for last-season’s clothing and accessories. Near Aberdeen on the south side of Hong Kong Island, in Horizon Plaza with 28 floors of stores selling antiques, home accessories and discount clothing. (852) 2814 8313

city’super (http://www.citysuper.com.hk/en/) Tsim Sha Tsui
Hong Kong’s best and most diverse food emporium. Filled with every foodstuff you can imagine, including Chinese teas and herbs, Japanese products, English biscuits and much more. Branches include those at Central’s ifc mall and Times Square in Causeway Bay, but the one in megamall Harbour City is the largest. (852)2375 8222

Yue Hwa Chinese Products (http://www.yuehwa.com/en-us) Yau Ma Tei
Catering mostly to the local and mainland Chinese market. Medicinal herbs, Chinese teas, packaged food, jade jewelry, clothing, arts and crafts, furniture, housewares and a wild assortment of other goods. (852) 3511 2222

Temple Street Night Market (http://www.temple-street-night-market.hk/) Yau Ma Tei
Hong Kong’s most famous night market. Catering now mostly to tourists, street vendors sell Chinese souvenirs, electronic gadgets, sunglasses, watches, jewelry, clothing and an overwhelming of items. There are also open-air food stalls and restaurants, and, near Tin Hau Temple, fortunetellers (some of whom speak English) and street-side Chinese opera performers. (no phone)

Jade Market (http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/shop/where-to-shop/street-markets-and-shopping-streets/jade-market-and-jade-street.jsp) Yau Ma Tei
Thought to protect wearers and promote longevity, jade is sold in this tent-like market as bangles, pendants, earrings, amulets, figurines and more, available in a variety of shades and quality. Shops selling higher-priced jade in nearby Jade Street. (no phone)

Stanley Market (http://www.hk-stanley-market.com/) Stanley
Located in the small town of Stanley on Hong Kong Island’s southern coast, this small but lively permanent market consists of stalls and shops selling mostly clothing and Chinese souvenirs. A good place, too, for a meal on Stanley’s pretty waterfront. (no phone)

Bars & Clubs
Captain’s Bar (https://www.mandarinoriental.com/hong-kong/victoria-harbour/fine-dining/bars/captains-bar) Central
This clubby watering hole is so much an institution, it was left intact when the Mandarin Oriental underwent a complete overhaul some years back. Expertly made martinis, pints of beer served in silver tankards, and live jazz most nights from 9pm. (852) 2825 4006

Sevva (https://www.sevva.hk/) Central
A favorite after-work spot for young professionals. With a wrap-around rooftop terrace offering fantastic panoramic views of Central, the harbor and nightly Symphony of Lights show, plus an indoor lounge graced with a vertical garden and a restaurant serving creative international dishes. (852) 2537 1388

Insomnia (http://www.liverockmusic247.com/pages.html) Central
In-house rotating bands, happy hour until 9pm every day and long hours make this one of Lan Kwai Fong’s most popular venues. (852) 2525 0957

Dragon-I (http://www.dragon-i.com.hk/main.html) Central
One of Hong Kong’s hottest, longest-running dance clubs, with top DJs spinning hip hop, nostalgia and everything in between. So hip, you won’t make it past the front door on weekends unless you’re dressed the part. (852) 3110 1222

The Globe (http://www.theglobe.com.hk/) Central
A sports gastropub, with a great selection of draft and bottled beers, better than decent food, sporting events on TV and a Sunday roast. (852) 2543 1941

Staunton’s Wine Bar + Café (http://www.stauntonsgroup.com/) Central
One of SoHo’s first bars to open up beside the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator and still one of the best places for people-watching from its open-fronted bar. Burgers, wraps, pizzas, pastas, tapas and breakfast served all day. (852) 2973 6611

Carnegie’s (http://www.carnegies.net/about-us) Wan Chai
Drawing in a younger crowd with its live music, including jam nights and open jazz sessions, and its weekly Ladies Night with free sparkling wine for women. But it’s most known for customers dancing on the bar’s countertop. (852) 2866 6289

The Wanch (https://www.thewanch.hk/) Wan Chai
Since 1987, Hong Kong’s best for free nightly live music. Rock, jazz, blues, folk and more, in a comfortable, welcoming place where even solo female travelers can feel at home. (852) 2861 1621

OZONE (http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/china/hong-kong/dining/ozone) West Kowloon
The world’s highest bar, with jaw-dropping views, a sophisticated décor, signature cocktails, a satisfying tapas and snack menu, and a sumptuous Sunday brunch. (852) 2263 2270

The Ale Project (https://www.facebook.com/thealeproject/) Mong Kok
Local and imported beer on tap, along with sandwiches and other light fare. Near Ladies Market.
(852) 2468 2010

Tours
Hong Kong Free Tours (https://hongkongfreetours.com/)
These unconventional tours led by locals delve deeper into politics, income disparity and other aspects never covered in more mainstream tours. Everything from Hong Kong’s history as a colony and its return to China to living conditions in poor neighborhoods. Most tours are free, though tipping is encouraged. (852) 9444 8472

TramOramic Tour (https://www.hktramways.com/en/tramoramic/) Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay
One-hour tours though the busiest neighborhoods of Hong Kong Island aboard a retro a 1920s-style tram with an open top deck. Ticket includes two days of unlimited tram rides. (852) 2548 7102

Star Ferry Harbour Tours (http://www.starferry.com.hk/en/Introduction) Victoria Harbour
The Star Ferry, carrying passengers between Central and Kowloon since 1898, is Hong Kong’s number-one attraction. Because the ride takes only 5 minutes, you might want to hop aboard a 1920s double-decker replica for one-hour tours around Victoria Harbour. An evening cruise also takes in the nightly Symphony of Lights. (852) 2118 0032

Walk Hong Kong (http://www.walkhongkong.com/homepage.html)
Guided walking tours that take in Kowloon markets, Central’s historic buildings, temples or World War II battlefields, as well as half- and full-day hiking trips to deserted beaches, Hong Kong Geopark, and on famous trails like the Dragon Back Trail. (852) 9187 8641

Hong Kong Pub Crawl (https://hongkongpubcrawl.com/) Central, Causeway Bay, Wan Chai
Every Thursday, the pub crawl in Lan Kwai Fong nightlife district takes in four bars and a club, with a free welcome shot in each bar. On Wednesdays when there’s horse racing, a pub crawl includes entry into the Happy Valley race course and ends up at bars in Wan Chai. (no phone)

Things to Do
Tai Kwun Centre for Heritage and Arts (https://www.taikwun.hk/en/) Central
Once serving as the Central Police Station, the colonial-era walled compound now houses a nonprofit contemporary art gallery, restaurants, shops, performance art venues and public spaces. On Monday and Wednesday at 12:45pm, it stages a free Lunchtime Series featuring live music, street performances or other entertainment. (852) 3559 2600

Hong Kong Maritime Museum (http://www.hkmaritimemuseum.org/index.php) Central
Early Chinese maritime endeavors, sea pirates, Hong Kong’s development into a major international port and maritime communication and navigation. Simulators get kids’ attention by letting them shoot cannon at a pirate’s ship or steer a high-speed boat. A convenient location right next to the Star Ferry pier and with great views of the harbor. (852) 3713 2500

Hong Kong Park (https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/hkp/index.html) Central
A large playground, aviary with 600 exotic birds, one of Southeast Asia’s largest greenhouses, a viewing platform and, in Hong Kong’s oldest colonial building, the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware (closed until 2019 for renovation), all free. (852) 2521 5041

Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens (https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/hkzbg/index.html) Central
A free combination botanic garden and zoo established in 1864. Popular with families and elders practicing tai chi. Flora includes bamboo, camphor trees, orchids and bauhinia (Hong Kong’s emblem slower), while fauna concentrates mostly on birds but also has turtles, orangutans, lemurs and more. (852) 2530 0154

Man Mo Temple (http://www.amo.gov.hk/en/monuments_96.php) Sheung Wan
Hong Kong’s oldest Taoist temple, built in 1847 and considered a fine example of Chinese vernacular architecture. On Hollywood Road, beside steep Ladder Street. (852) 2803 2916

The Peak (https://www.thepeak.com.hk/en/home.asp) Victoria Peak
Hong Kong’s tallest hill is a star attraction, from the Peak Tram to get there to the Sky Terrace observation deck atop Peak Tower. Views are among the best city panoramas in the world both day and night, but don’t even think of coming on foggy or smoggy days. (852) 2849 0668

Ocean Park (https://www.oceanpark.com.hk/en Aberdeen
Hands down, Hong Kong’s best theme park for kids of all ages. A combination amusement park/aquarium/zoo, with sharks, pandas, gators, the weirdest goldfish you’ll ever see, plus roller coasters, kiddie rides and everything in between, all in a beautiful coastal setting. (852) 3923 2323

Avenue of Stars (http://www.avenueofstars.com.hk/en/) Tsim Sha Tsui
The Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront is the city’s best for close-up harbor views and Hong Kong Island’s skyscrapers across the water. This part of the pedestrian promenade pays tribute to more than 100 cinematic celebrities, from actors Bruce Lee, Jet Li, Jackie Chan and Gong Li to director Wong Kar Wai, with handprints, statues and film memorabilia. Reopens in early 2019 after a major makeover, with only a small area now available for viewing. (852) 3598 4608

Kowloon Park (https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/kp/index.html) Tsim Sha Tsui
Hong Kong’s best park for families. Public indoor and outdoor swimming pools, two playgrounds, a hedge maze, open-air sculpture garden, bird sanctuary with flamingos and other waterfowl, Chinese garden, and, on Sundays, free kung fu demonstrations and a small art fair. (852) 2724 3344

Yuen Po Street Bird Garden (https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/ypsbg/index.html) Mong Kok
Songbirds, cages, mealy worms and tiny porcelain food bowls for sale at this small market, along with locals who bring their caged birds for an outing. Don’t miss the next-door flower market. (852) 2302 1762

Nan Lian Garden (http://www.nanliangarden.org/home.php?eng) Diamond Hill
It’s new (since 2006) but quickly became Hong Kong’s most beautiful Chinese garden. Laid out in the classical style of the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), with ponds, artificial hills, ornamental rocks and waterfalls. There’s a vegetarian restaurant, and, across the street, the Chi Lin Nunnery. (852) 3658 9366

Wong Tai Sin (http://www1.siksikyuen.org.hk/en/wong-tai-sin-temple) Wong Tai Sin
An extremely popular fortune-telling temple, making it at times very crowded with worshippers; some fortunetellers speak English. Temple grounds include the Good Wish Garden. (852) 2327 8141

Horse Racing (http://entertainment.hkjc.com/entertainment/english/index.aspx) Happy Valley and Shatin
Betting on the horse races has been popular since Hong Kong’s first racetrack opened in 1846. Tracks in Happy Valley and Shatin, but best are Wednesday evening races in Happy Valley, where the inexpensive public Beer Garden right beside the tracks becomes a party scene with stalls selling beer and food. (852) 2895 1523 for Happy Valley; (852) 2966 8111 for Shatin

Lo So Shing Beach (https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/beach/index/beach-location-nt/beach-address-is.html#lososhing) Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island
One of the more secluded 40-some public beaches in Hong Kong. You have to take a ferry and then walk about 20 minutes to get there, but this low-key beach pays off with clean water, shower and restroom facilities, a refreshment stand and lifeguard on duty. (852) 2982 8252

Dragon Back Trail (http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/see-do/great-outdoors/hikes/dragons-back.jsp) Hong Kong Island
Hong Kong’s most famous urban hiking trail. Three miles and about 4 hours along a ridge, with great views (be sure to bring plenty of water). (no phone).

Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark (http://www.geopark.gov.hk/en_index.htm) Northeast New Territories
19 square miles of mostly virginal coastline and islands. Highlights include the High Island Geo-trail, rock formations like the hexagonal volcanic rock columns and Sharp Island. (852) 2394 1538

Symphony of Lights (http://www.tourism.gov.hk/symphony/eindex.html) Tsim Sha Tsui, Central and Wan Chai waterfronts
One of the world’s largest permanent light and sound shows. Synchronized colored lights and laser beams projected from more than 40 buildings on both sides of the harbor, with recorded music performed by the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra broadcast at viewing areas on the Tsim Sha Tsui and Wan Chai waterfronts. Nightly at 8pm. (852) 2508 1234

Neighborhoods
Central
Hong Kong’s oldest district and its business and financial hub. With some of the city’s poshest hotels, restaurants and shops; nightlife and dining districts of Lan Kwai Fong and SoHo; and the iconic trams chugging their way past skyscrapers. Linked to the Mid-Levels with its upscale residences via the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator, the world’s longest, and to Tsim Sha Tsui via MTR subway and Star Ferry. Best Stuff: Tai Kwun Centre for Heritage and Arts https://www.taikwun.hk/en/ (historic complex with gallery, shops, restaurants, performance art) • Hong Kong Maritime Museum http://www.hkmaritimemuseum.org/index.php • Hong Kong Park https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/hkp/index.html • Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware http://hk.art.museum/en_US/web/ma/tea-ware.html (all about Chinese tea and tea ware) • Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/hkzbg/index.html • Li Yuen Street East & West http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/shop/where-to-shop/street-markets-and-shopping-streets/li-yuen-street-east-and-west.jsp (traditional street market) • ifc mall http://ifc.com.hk/en/mall/ (Hong Kong’s classiest mall) • Lane Crawford http://www.lanecrawford.com/info/about-us/ (upscale local department store) • Shanghai Tang https://www.shanghaitang.com/en-us/store/shanghai-tang-mansion-hong-kong (chic Chinese clothing and accessories) • A-Man Hing Cheong Co. https://www.tailorhk.com (tailor) • Hanart TZ Gallery http://www.hanart.com/?lang=en (contemporary Chinese art) • The French Window http://www.miradining.com/french-window/ (creative French and European cuisine) • Duddell’s https://www.duddells.co/home/en/ (Cantonese food) • Mott 32 https://www.mott32.com/ (Cantonese, Beijing and Szechuan food) • Isola Bar & Grill https://gaiagroup.com.hk/restaurant/isola/ (Italian) • City Hall Maxim’s Palace http://www.maxims.com.hk/en/main.asp (dim sum) • Lin Heung Tea House (no website) (dim sum) • Happy Paradise https://www.happyparadise.hk/ (hip Cantonese) • Captain’s Bar https://www.mandarinoriental.com/hong-kong/victoria-harbour/fine-dining/bars/captains-bar (a Hong Kong institution) • Sevva https://www.sevva.hk/ (cocktail lounge with outdoor terrace) • Insomnia http://www.liverockmusic247.com/pages.html (live music in Lan Kwai Fong) • Dragon-I http://www.dragon-i.com.hk/main.html (dance club) • The Globe http://www.theglobe.com.hk/ (gastropub) • Staunton’s Wine Bar + Café http://www.stauntonsgroup.com/

Sheung Wan
Just west of Central but worlds apart, with traditional Chinese shops selling medicinal herbs, antique stores on Hollywood Road, and Hong Kong’s oldest temple. Connected to the Mid-Levels via steep Ladder Street. Best Stuff: Man Mo Temple http://www.amo.gov.hk/en/monuments_96.php • Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences http://www.hkmms.org.hk/en/home/ (straight up Ladder Street, in the Mid-Levels) • Wing On https://shop.wingon.hk/en/Article/Detail/2438/class-467/Id-4225/cm-14379/d-0 (local department store) • PMQ
http://www.pmq.org.hk/ (local designers, artist studios, shops) • Cat Street http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/shop/where-to-shop/street-markets-and-shopping-streets/cat-street.jsp (antiques and curios) • Western Market https://westernmarket.com.hk/ (former market now housing souvenir and gift shops) • 208 Duecento Otto https://www.208.com.hk/ (Italian) • Dim Sum Square http://dimsumsquare.top-cafes.com/ (inexpensive dim sum) • Grassroots Pantry (http://www.grassrootspantry.com/ (vegetarian) • RONIN http://roninhk.com/ (Japanese pub)

Wan Chai
A fast-changing neighborhood with an increasing number of hotels due to the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre but also with pockets of old Hong Kong and a burgeoning nightlife that runs the gamut from sleazy to cool. Between Central and Causeway Bay. Best Stuff: Hong Kong Arts Centre http://www.hkac.org.hk/en/ (non-profit with theaters, cinema, galleries, workshops, restaurants) • Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre https://www.hkcec.com/en (a full roster of events and exhibitions) • Golden Bauhinia Square http://www.discoverhongkong.com/ca/see-do/highlight-attractions/top-10/golden-bauhinia-square.jsp (1997 Handover gift from China, with Reunification Monument, daily flag-raising ceremony, views of Victoria Harbour and nightly Symphony of Lights) • Pak Tai Temple http://www.ctc.org.hk/en/directcontrol/temple10.asp (1863 temple, devoted to deity thought to prevent disaster) • Blue House http://vivabluehouse.hk/en/menu/27/story (restored 1920s tenement with occasional guided tours and exhibits) • Chinese Arts & Crafts https://www.cachk.com/ (Chinese only) (well-crafted Chinese souvenirs) • Tai Yuen Street Market
http://www.discoverhongkong.com/us/shop/where-to-shop/street-markets-and-shopping-streets/tai-yuen-street.jsp (toy market) • The Pawn http://www.thepawn.com.hk/ (British food in historic building) • Grissini
https://hongkong.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/GrissiniItalianrestaurant.html (upscale Italian with harbor views) • Fook Lam Moon http://fooklammoon-grp.com/en#restaurants (famous Cantonese restaurant) • Wooloomooloo https://woo-steakhouse.com/location/wanchai/ (rooftop venue serving Australian steaks) • Chili Club (no website) (long-standing inexpensive Thai restaurant) • Happy Veggie (no website) (non-profit vegetarian restaurant with a hearing-impaired staff) • The Wanch https://www.thewanch.hk/ (free live music nightly) • Carnegie’s http://www.carnegies.net/ (bar famous for bar-top dancing) • Old China Hand http://oldchinahand.com.hk/wp/ (long-time Wan Chai bar) • The Hop House http://elgrande.com.hk/restaurant/the-hop-house/ (open-air bar and restaurant) • Coyote Bar & Grill http://www.coyote.com.hk/ (margaritas and Mexican food) • Dusk til Dawn (live music and dancing)
http://www.liverockmusic247.com/bar-dtd.html

Causeway Bay
Popular shopping destination for locals, with department stores, malls, clothing boutiques and restaurants. East of Wan Chai, connected to Central via subway and tram. Best Stuff: Victoria Park https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/parks/vp (Hong Kong Island’s largest park) • Noonday Gun http://www.discoverhongkong.com/us/see-do/culture-heritage/historical-sites/colonial/noon-day-gun.jsp (firing of a naval gun daily at noon) • Hysan Place https://hp.leegardens.com.hk/ (mall with international brand clothing) • Times Square http://www.timessquare.com.hk/eng/ (16 floors of shopping and dining) • SOGO https://www.sogo.com.hk/cwb/en/home/index.php (Japanese-style department store) • Goods of Desire https://god.com.hk/ (Hong Kong-themed souvenirs and gifts) • Jardine’s Bazaar http://www.discoverhongkong.com/us/shop/where-to-shop/street-markets-and-shopping-streets/jardines-crescent.jsp (local street market with mostly women’s clothing and accessories) • ToTT’s and Roof Terrace https://www.mandarinoriental.com/hong-kong/the-excelsior/fine-dining/bars/totts-and-roof-terrace (indoor/outdoor restaurant/bar with harbor views) • Red Pepper http://www.redpepper.com.hk/page6.html (Szechuan food) • Tsui Wah http://www.tsuiwahrestaurant.com/ (comfort food, Hong Kong style) • The Coffee Academics https://www.the-coffeeacademics.com/ (coffee shop for aficionados) • Inn Side Out http://elgrande.com.hk/restaurant/inn-side-out/ (sports bar) • Breeze https://www.facebook.com/pg/breezebarhk/about/?ref=page_internal (pool and billiard hall/sports bar)

Tsim Sha Tsui
Hong Kong’s greatest concentration of hotels, restaurants and shops catering mostly to international visitors. At the tip of Kowloon Peninsula, with great views from the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade and with Star Ferry service to Central and Wan Chai. Best Stuff: Avenue of Stars http://www.avenueofstars.com.hk/en/ (Hong Kong’s tribute to local cinematic celebrities, on the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront) • Kowloon Park https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/kp/index.html (Hong Kong’s best for families) • Hong Kong Museum of Art
http://hk.art.museum/en_US/web/ma/home.html (Hong Kong’s best for Chinese art, closed until 2019 for renovation) • Hong Kong Museum of History http://hk.history.museum/en_US/web/mh/index.html • Hong Kong Science Museum http://hk.science.museum/en_US/web/scm/index.html (science and technology, with plenty of hands-on for children) • Hong Kong Space Museum https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Space/en_US/web/spm/whatsnew.html (space science, astronomy, space exploration, a space theater and OMNIMAX) • Hong Kong Cultural Centre https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/hkcc/index.html (Chinese opera, the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra, musicals, and more, plus free music and events) • Harbour City http://www.harbourcity.com.hk/en/ (one of Asia’s largest malls) • Sam’s Tailor http://www.samstailor.com/ • city’super http://www.citysuper.com.hk/en/ (food emporium) • Sandbox VR https://sandboxvr.com/hk/en/news/sandbox-vr-tsim-sha-tsui/ (virtual reality escape rooms) * Gaddi’s https://www.peninsula.com/en/hong-kong/hotel-fine-dining/gaddis-french-restaurant (very upscale French restaurant) • Felix https://www.peninsula.com/en/hong-kong/hotel-fine-dining/felix (contemporary European cuisine) • Hutong https://www.hutong.com.hk/experience (hip Cantonese) • Symphony by Jade http://www.maxims.com.hk/en/main.asp (Cantonese and dim sum, in the Hong Kong Cultural Centre and with harbor views) • Spring Deer (no website) (famous for honey-glazed Peking duck) • eyebar http://www.elite-concepts.com/en_US/eyebar/ (bar with al-fresco seating and great views) • Lobby Lounge https://hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com/en/dining/lobby-lounge/ (afternoon tea, evening jazz, with great views of Hong Kong) • Delaney’s http://delaneys.com.hk/our-venues/delaneys-kowloon/ (Irish pub) • Bahama Mama’s Caribbean Bar https://www.facebook.com/pg/Bahama-mamas-caribbean-bar-301292019920302/about/?ref=page_internal (old-timer on Knutsford Terrace, a pedestrian street lined with restaurants and bars)

Yau Ma Tei/Jordan
A mixed residential/retail neighborhood in Kowloon north of the more touristy Tsim Sha Tsui, filled with small ma-and-pa shops that give it a traditional Chinese atmosphere and a variety of interesting markets. Best Stuff: Tin Hau Temple http://www.discoverhongkong.com/us/see-do/culture-heritage/chinese-temples/tin-hau-temple-at-yau-ma-tei.jsp (dedicated to the goddess of the sea) • Temple Street Night Market http://www.temple-street-night-market.hk/ (Hong Kong’s most famous night market) • Jade Market
http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/shop/where-to-shop/street-markets-and-shopping-streets/jade-market-and-jade-street.jsp • Yue Hwa Chinese Products http://www.yuehwa.com/en-us (Chinese department store) •
Tai Ping Koon Restaurant (no website) (Chinese version of Western food) • Curry Leaf http://curryleaf.hk/ (Indian) • Sino Vegetarian (no website) (inexpensive vegetarian on Nathan Road) • Mak’s Noodles (no website) (wonton and noodles) • Mido Café (no website) (retro 1950s diner, often used as a local set for movies) • Horizonte Lounge http://www.maderagroup.com/hotel_madera/en/facilities (rooftop bar)

Mong Kok
Once infamous for having the world’s highest population density; today famous for markets, specialty streets and countless stores catering to Chinese. Best Stuff: Tung Wah Museum www.tungwah.org.hk/en/heritage/tw-museum/ (history of Tung Wah hospitals, the first to provide free service to Chinese; closed for renovation until 2019) • Ladies Market http://www.ladies-market.hk/ (clothing and souvenirs) • Lei Garden http://www.leigarden.com.hk/ (Cantonese) • Yuen Po Street Bird Garden https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/ypsbg/index.html (market selling pet birds) • Flower Market Road http://www.flower-market.hk/ (cut flowers, potted plants, next to Bird Garden) • Goldfish Market http://www.goldfish-market.hk/ • Langham Place http://www.langhamplace.com.hk/tc/ (mall) • Lei Garden http://www.leigarden.com.hk/ (Cantonese) • Tim Ho Wan http://www.timhowan.com/ (famous dim sum) • Chao Inn http://www.taoheung.com.hk/en/brands/chao_inn/index.html (chiu chow cuisine) • Mui Kee Congee http://muikeecongee.top-cafes.com/ (rice porridge) • Full Cup Café http://www.fullcupcafe.com.hk/ • TAP–The Ale Project (https://www.facebook.com/thealeproject/) (craft beers)
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