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Where to Stay in Buenos Aires

By Santorini Dave

The Best Areas to Stay in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is the most elegant of all South American capitals, the Paris of the Southern Hemisphere. The city oozes character, with its grand 19th-century architecture, distinctive neighborhoods, tango halls, world-class soccer teams, and excellent restaurants. It’s a big city with lots of accommodation choices.

Buenos Aires Neighborhoods

Forty-eight neighborhoods or barrios divide the city, but focusing primarily on the most central ones makes sense. The city center (comprising the San Nicolás and Monserrat barrios) is the historic heart of Buenos Aires, containing its grandest plazas, churches, and boulevards, as well as the oldest cafés and shopping districts. It is an obvious place to stay for first-timers, though parts of it can be quiet at night and weekends, and the best museums and restaurants are elsewhere.

Just to the east lie the regenerated docklands of Puerto Madero, where you’ll find a smattering of high-end contemporary hotels and restaurants. To the south lie the grittier, bohemian neighborhoods of San Telmo and Boca. Both are worth exploring for their brightly painted colonial townhouses and villas, local bars and cafés, art galleries, artisan fairs, and touristy tango haunts – though only in San Telmo will you find a cluster of good mid-range and boutique hotels.

The neighborhoods north of the city center are far wealthier (and safer) – this is where you’ll find the best hotels, with prices generally much higher. Retiro is known for its huge French-style palaces and the Museum of Hispanic American Art. Recoleta is home to the ornate cemetery where Evita is buried and another huge art museum, the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Upscale Palermo features the best shopping and dining in the city, plus the Museum of Latin American Art, Museo Evita (dedicated to Eva Perón), and the best parks in the city.

Districts Worth a Visit in Buenos Aires

We’ve covered our favorite neighborhoods to visit in more detail below, but with more time, these districts and sights are also worth checking out:

Balvanera: Just west of the city center, this grittier barrio is best known for the spectacular Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes (a 19th-century water pumping station turned museum), and the neighborhood’s links to legendary tango singer Carlos Gardel (his house is now a museum). It’s also known for its cheap shopping malls such as Abasto and the Once commercial district. There are some good value hotels here, if you fancy staying off the beaten path: Casa Umare, Destino Real, GrandView Hotel, Intersur Suites, and Uno Buenos Aires Suites.

Belgrano: Just north of Palermo, this affluent neighborhood is home to the wildly popular soccer team Club Atlético River Plate – Boca Juniors’ great rivals play at Estadio Mâs Monumental, where there’s a team museum. Belgrano is also home to the city’s compact but lively Chinatown (Barrio Chino) and the Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta art collections. Good places to stay here include Sucre Suites and the Libertador Hotel.

Mataderos: Right at Buenos Aires’ western fringe, it’s worth heading out to the Feria de Mataderos on Sundays to experience the city’s most enjoyable market. It tends to attract a mix of secondhand and flea market stalls, food vendors (including amazing steak sandwich sellers), and often live folk music, traditional crafts, and even gaucho riding competitions.

Safety in Buenos Aires

All the areas of Buenos Aires reviewed here are generally safe, though the usual precautions should be taken at night, especially in La Boca and San Telmo, where muggings can happen – stick to well-lit and busy streets. Opportunistic thieves and pickpockets operate at places like the San Telmo market (leave expensive watches or jewelry at home). The area around Retiro station can also be sketchy at night. Palermo and Recoleta tend to be the safest places to stay. Overall, Buenos Aires is one of the safest cities in South America, and most visitors have no problems.

The Best Places to Stay in Buenos Aires

Best Neighborhoods in Buenos Aires for…

  • Best Neighborhood to Stay for First Timers/Sightseeing: City Center or Palermo
    It makes sense for most first-time visitors to stay in the city center. There’s a vast range of accommodations at every price point, transportation to all the other neighborhoods, and major sights and shopping districts within walking distance. There’s the Plaza de Mayo with the cathedral and Casa Rosada, the Florida and Lavalle pedestrianized shopping streets, historic café’s like Café Tortoni, opera house Teatro Colón, and the Museo Etnográfico Juan Bautista Ambrosetti, with its pre-Hispanic South American artefacts (you’ll also be within walking distance of San Telmo and the regenerated docklands at Puerto Madero).

    Though it’s a bit further away (and more expensive), it’s also worth considering Palermo. It’s one of the city’s most attractive and safest neighborhoods. It has the best eating and drinking, upscale shopping, and several major attractions: the Museo Evita, the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano, and the Botanical Gardens.

  • Most Romantic Neighborhood: San Telmo or Recoleta
    The city of tango and Evita is one of the most romantic cities in the world, with plenty of cozy bars, restaurants, and boutique hotels scattered all over the city, perfect for couples. The historic neighborhood of San Telmo is desirable, with its historic villas and cobbled streets, frequent milongas (social tango events), and the popular Sunday antiques market, the Feria de San Telmo. Having said that, the poshest, most romantic hotels are generally found in Recoleta (Alvear Palace, Algodon Mansion, Hub Porteño, and many others).
  • Best Neighborhood for Nightlife: Palermo
    You’ll find bars throughout the city, with good clusters in Retiro and Recoleta. Still, the best mix of wine bars, clubs, pubs, and cocktail lounges tends to be in Palermo (especially Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood). Top spots include Niceto Club, the live music at Roxy Live, Frank’s speakeasy, and Blest Palermo brewpub. Craft beer fans should head to Bronson Brewing (or Strange Brewing in Belgrano).
  • Best Neighborhood for Food and Restaurants: Palermo
    Buenos Aires is one of South America’s culinary hubs, with Recoleta and especially Palermo (Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Soho, and Las Cañitas) home to excellent restaurants. Don Julio is one of the continent’s best restaurants, but you’ll eat superb steaks at numerous parrillas (steakhouses) in the neighborhood: La Cabrera, Lo de Jesús, and Calden del Soho Grill are some of the best. The fine dining and tasting menus at 13 Fronteras, Fogón Asado, and The Argentine Experience are always top-notch. Still, you’ll also enjoy the cheaper Italian fare at local spots like Il Ballo Del Mattone.

    Dinner is usually late in Argentina, like in Spain. Service at most restaurants runs from around 8pm until midnight or later – most porteños (locals) eat out after 9pm, especially on weekends.

  • Best Neighborhoods for Shopping: City Center, Palermo, and San Telmo
    For conventional shopping, the area around Florida and Lavalle streets and Avenida Corrientes in the City Center is good enough, along with indoor malls like Galerías Pacífico and Galerías Larreta. Palermo (Soho and Hollywood) is perfect for independent designer clothing stores and pop-up boutiques like Blue Sheep (by Cata Chavanne) and Sadaels (by designer Juan Hernández Daels). Other favorites include Keak, a used clothing store, and locally made clothing from Juana de Arco.

    For a more alternative scene, not to mention antiques and crafts, head to San Telmo. In addition to its famous market, it’s also become a hub for young independent designers. The Vittore Calzature shoe store, Eureka Records, La Sombra del Arrabal (hat shop), and Isadora (fashion) are all located on Calle Defensa.

  • Best Neighborhood for Local Vibe: Chacarita or Barracas
    Chacarita, southwest of Palermo, is a great place to escape tourists and the beaten path. The massive Chacarita Cemetery is much less known than the famous Recoleta Cemetery, but is just as atmospheric and crammed with ornate tombs and monuments – singer Carlos Gardel is the biggest celebrity buried here (there’s a statue of the beloved tango singer above his tomb). You can also check out the local cultural center, the Espacio Cultural Carlos Gardel, but there’s not much to see, and it’s best to stroll the main streets to soak up the local scene. You should definitely stop by El Imperio de la Pizza, a local institution open 24 hours, or grab a beer at Growlers Chacarita. El Galpón is an excellent organic produce market that is open every Wednesday and Saturday near the Federico Lacroze station.

    The old working neighborhood of Barracas, just west of La Boca, is also worth a look for its whimsical attractions and street art. Tiny Calle Lanín features the “Painted Houses”, created since the 1990s; some 35 colorfully decorated homes, over two blocks. There’s also the “El Regreso de Quinquela”, on Lavadero and San Antonio streets, one of the longest murals in the world. Created by Alfredo “El Pelado” Segatori, it’s a homage to local artist Benito Quinquela Martín. Nearby is the Metropolitan Design Center (INCUBA), on a former fish market site and now hosting exhibitions and design workshops.

    You won’t find any decent hotels in either neighborhood – you’re better off staying elsewhere and making a half-day excursion. If you’re looking to stay in a more local neighborhood, consider Belgrano or San Telmo (though the latter is also quite touristy in parts).

  • Best Neighborhood for Families: Recoleta or Palermo
    Buenos Aires is good fun for families; the locals love kids, and you’ll be welcomed at most restaurants, cafés, and sights all over the city. Though kids will get a kick out of the street life, markets and murals in La Boca and San Telmo, you are better off staying in more upscale neighborhoods like Recoleta or Palermo, where it’s safer at night and there’s a larger selection of comfortable hotels.

    Both neighborhoods are home to large parks and playgrounds (with pedal boats and a carousel on offer in Palermo), major museums like the hands-on Museo Participativo de Ciencias (science museum), and the big city art museums. Older kids will enjoy learning about Eva Perón (the famous former first lady of Argentina) at the Museo Evita and visiting the Recoleta Cemetery (where she’s buried), as well as the shows at the planetarium in Palermo (Planetario Galileo Galilei). Palermo also isn’t far from Parque Norte, a 74-acre water park and sports complex in neighboring Belgrano. Cinépolis Recoleta is the best place to watch movies (though these tend to be Spanish only).

The Best Neighborhoods in Buenos Aires for Tourists

City Center (San Nicolás and Monserrat)

Buenos Aires’ historic core (aka “Casco Histórico”)

The City Center neighborhoods of Buenos Aires have a bit of everything: grand old cafés, huge 19th-century buildings, modern high-rises, leafy plazas, colonial churches, some museums, shopping streets, and even a few shabbier sections. It’s not a bad place to be based, especially if this is your first time in Buenos Aires, but also because it’s easy to access the rest of the city.

Palm-studded Plaza de Mayo lies at the heart of the old city, home to the iconic Casa Rosada, the pinkish presidential palace (with its history museum, Museo del Bicentenario), and the Catedral Metropolitana (former base of Pope Francis I and resting place of Independence hero General José de San Martín). From here, Avenida de Mayo, the city’s major boulevard, runs west, lined with grand belle époque buildings; it’s also home to the must-see Café Tortoni, one of the city’s most historic coffee shops. Avenida de Mayo runs to Plaza del Congreso, dominated by the huge Congreso Nacional building, Argentina’s parliament. Avenida Corrientes is another street worth exploring, lined with bookshops and old-school cafés like La Giralda.

Other highlights include Teatro Colón, the grand opera house, and the Museo Judío (Jewish Museum) on Plaza Lavalle; the iconic Obelisco, the landmark white column in the middle of vast Avenida 9 de Julio; the shopping district of the “microcentro”, principally the pedestrianized streets of Lavalle and Florida; “El Bajo” sub-district, home to bars and restaurants; and the city’s most beautiful church, the 18th-cetury Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Merced.

The more southerly Monserrat district is fun to explore on foot – many small museums and historic homes are open to the public here. Casa Querubines (Defensa 223) is a good one, with exhibits on city history, as is the Manzana de las Luces, or “block of enlightenment”, dating from 1662, when it was built for the Jesuits. Finally, the university-run Museo Etnográfico Juan Bautista Ambrosetti (ethnographic museum) has a precious collection of pre-Columbian South American artefacts.

There’s a vast range of accommodations here, from the best bargain hostels in the city to some excellent boutiques and big luxury chains – the cheaper hotels on the area’s western side are not great, though, and can be a little sketchy at night.

Puerto Madero

The city’s regenerated docklands neighborhood

Just east of the City Center, the old docks and warehouses of Puerto Madero have been converted into a stylish district of modern offices, condos, and restaurants along the waterfront, essentially four huge, interconnected “diques” (docks) just off the Río de la Plata. It’s a pleasant place to stroll or eat al fresco on a sunny day, and there are a few attractions worth checking out. The Puente de la Mujer traversing Dique 3 is a strikingly futuristic pedestrian swing bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava, while two 19th-century navy sailing ships have been converted into museums nearby – the Buque Museo Corbeta ARA Uruguay, and the Buque Museo Fragata ARA Presidente Sarmiento. The real highlight, though, is the Fortabat Art Collection, housed in a stunning glass and aluminum pavilion – there are lots of gems here, including Juliet and her Nurse by Turner, several paintings by Dalí, and lots of Argentine and Uruguayan artwork. You can also visit the Museo de la Inmigración, which chronicles Argentina’s long relationship with (primarily) European migrants, or check out the multimedia contemporary art at the Faena Arts Center. Beyond the docks, the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur is a surprisingly wild marsh and grassland preserve along the River Plate.

You’ll find a small number of newer, high-end hotels here – though the neighborhood lacks historic character, you will be near the water, a novelty in Buenos Aires.

San Telmo

The bohemian, artsy neighborhood

South of the City Center, San Telmo is one of our favorite neighborhoods, with its romantic cobbled streets, art galleries, Spanish colonial remnants, and superb street market. Despite some gentrification, it remains largely a working-class area, though plenty of students and artists also live here. This is where you’ll see tango dancers perform on the street, or locals just hanging out at a milonga (social dance) – the most famous indoor tango hall is El Viejo Almacén.

Almost everything is accessible from the main drag, Calle Defensa. Central Plaza Dorrego is where you’ll find the semi-permanent antiques fair, though the main market day is Sunday. Nearby, the indoor Mercado San Telmo (aka Mercado Municipal) is open daily, crammed with cafés and gift stalls. Other highlights include the cache of Argentine modern art in the Museo Moderno, and the absorbing Museo Histórico Nacional, the national history museum at the southern end of Defensa in palm-studded Parque Lezama.

San Telmo has a much smaller selection of accommodations than the City Center, though it has much more character. There are excellent mid-range options here, and some specifically LGBTQ-friendly hotels.

La Boca

Working-class neighborhood with the legendary Boca Juniors

South of San Telmo, La Boca is the city’s most idiosyncratic neighborhood, with a fierce sense of identity best displayed each week at La Bombonera, the Boca Juniors football team stadium. The soccer stadium has a museum, the Museo de la Pasión Boquense (which offers stadium tours if you can’t attend a match). Boca is also known for its brightly painted wooden and corrugated-iron houses, best viewed along Calle Caminito near the Matanza River waterfront (you’ll see less touristy examples along nearby Calle Garibaldi). You can learn about this “open-air museum” founder at the Museo Benito Quinquela Martín, the artist’s former home and studio. Other highlights include the contemporary art exhibitions at Fundación Proa (which also has an excellent café) and the fabulous Colón Fábrica, which is a vast warehouse housing all the costumes, props, and stage scenery from operas performed at the Teatro Colón in the City Center.

There are no real hotels in La Boca, but you can find good apartment rentals through the usual websites. You could also try La Boca B&B Posada.

Retiro

Financial and commercial center

North of the City Center, the old port district of Retiro is part high-end residential area and part busy commercial district, dominated by the vast bulk of the Estación Retiro, the city’s main train station. Leafy Plaza General San Martín is at the heart of the neighborhood, surrounded by elegant mansions and home to the Falklands War monument, a small armaments museum, and the Torre Monumental, an old clocktower which provides bird’s-eye views of the surrounding area. The main museum up here is the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano in Palacio Noel – a gorgeous Neocolonial pile built in the 1920s – with its 17th and 18th-century Spanish-American art collection. There’s also a small but interesting railway museum.

There are plenty of mid-range hotels in Retiro, but many are of mediocre quality – exceptions noted below – and it’s best known for its excellent luxury options.

Recoleta

The city’s most beautiful neighborhood

The affluent Recoleta neighborhood is a world away from the City Center and barrios of South Buenos Aires, with its expensive condos, pristine gardens, and posh shops. The main draw for most visitors is the Cementerio de la Recoleta, the 19th-century cemetery crammed with the ostentatious monuments and tombs of Argentina’s rich and famous. It’s quite a sight and worth touring, though Evita’s tomb, in the Duarte family plot, is relatively humble. An elegant, all-white colonial church, the Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, stands at the northern end of the cemetery. Stroll along Avenida Alvear to peruse the neighborhood’s upscale shops and galleries or check out the exhibitions at the Centro Cultural Recoleta. The huge Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is the city’s primary art museum (with mainly European 19th and 20th-centurty works) – there’s usually a handicraft market in the park near here at weekends – while the nearby Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo displays a remarkable haul of art and furniture indicative of the city’s early 20th century golden era. Recoleta is also home to the El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a famous bookstore in an old theater, and the Fundación Internacional Jorge Luis Borges, commemorating the great Argentine writer.

Recoleta is a big neighborhood, with most hotels clustered in the center, east and south of the cemetery and parks. Prices are generally higher, with some of the top luxury hotels in the city located here.

Palermo

Affluent neighborhood, with excellent parks, shopping, and nightlife

Palermo is another large, wealthy residential neighborhood, with a corridor of lovely parks at its northern end, some of the city’s best restaurants and bars, and several major sights. It’s a pleasant and generally safe place to stay, with lots to do, though it’s a bit of a hike from the City Center and San Telmo. The area known as Palermo Chico is home to the stylish Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA), an excellent showcase for Latin American modern art, and the Museo de Arte Popular José Hernández, dedicated to Argentine folk art. A bit further west, the must-see Museo Evita chronicles the life of Eva Perón through movies and personal items.

The nearby botanical garden, the Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays, lies at the foot of a huge green zone that dominates the northern end of Palermo, full of gardens, playgrounds, and monuments. It’s worth strolling the paths here, and checking out the Jardín Japonés (Japanese Garden), Planetario Galileo Galilei (planetarium), and Museo Sívori (contemporary art museum).

Further southwest, Palermo Viejo is crammed with bars and restaurants – this is the best place to go out in the city. It’s divided into two sub-neighborhoods on either side of Avenida Juan Bautista Justo: Plaza Serrano (aka Plaza Cortázar) is at the heart of Palermo Soho, while Palermo Hollywood is just to the north (named for the many TV studios also located here). Both areas are also known for street art. At the barrio’s northern edge is Las Cañitas, another zone of hip bars and restaurants. To the south, tranquil Parque Centenario is home to the Bernardino Rivadavia Museum of Natural Science, with an impressive fossil and dinosaur collection.

Palermo is another pricey neighborhood full of expensive luxury hotels and boutiques, but there are a few hostels (with private rooms and dorms) and mid-range options.

Top Travel Tips for Buenos Aires

  • Buenos Aires has an efficient and cheap public transport system. The best way to get around is the metro (“subte”), comprising six subway lines, connecting all the main neighborhoods and transport hubs. This is supplemented by a network of more than 180 bus routes. You’ll need to buy a stored value SUBE travelcard to use city transport, obtainable from any tourist information center, metro station, or from kiosks throughout the city. Download the free “Cómo Llego” app to help plan journeys by metro or bus.
  • Given the comprehensive public transport system, the abundance of taxis, and the challenging traffic conditions (aggressive driving, congested roads), renting a car to tour the city is not a good idea.
  • Another good way to get around Buenos Aires is by bicycle. The city has an extensive network of bike lanes and a free 24-hour public bikeshare scheme called EcoBici. All you need is an international credit card (as security), a valid passport, the address of a hotel or residence in Buenos Aires, and a mobile phone that can receive SMS.
  • Buenos Aires’ Ezeiza International Airport (aka Ministro Pistarini International Airport) is around 19 miles (30km) southwest of the City Center (Plaza de Mayo) – around 40 minutes by taxi. Be prepared for long lines to clear immigration and customs. There’s not much point in staying at the airport, given how easy it is to get into the city, but if you do need to stay here, the best place is EZE Inn Hotel Boutique – it’s pricey and only has a few rooms, so you’ll need to book ahead.
  • Though hotels and major tourist sights usually have English speakers on hand, don’t assume staff working in shops and restaurants will understand you. Try to learn a few words and numbers in Spanish.
  • Free wi-fi is available at Buenos Aires Airport (“AA_2000” network), and increasingly at cafés, bars, casinos, tourist hotspots, and parks throughout the city.
  • The city’s official tourism website

Our Favorite Hotels in Buenos Aires

5-Star Hotel: Four Seasons

Boutique: Tanguero

Cheap: Lina’s Tango

Hostel: Che Juan

About Santorini Dave

Santorini Dave Santorini Dave was started in 2011 when I posted a short guide to visiting Santorini with kids. Now, my small team and I provide guides to Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Mykonos, Crete, Athens, and all of Greece - as well as best places to stay in some of my favorite cities - like London, Paris, Barcelona, Rome, Venice, and Florence.

Questions? Email me at dave@santorinidave.com.