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Where to Stay in Cartagena

By Santorini Dave

The Best Areas to Stay in Cartagena

One of the most beautiful cities in South America, Cartagena de Indias lies on Colombia’s northern Caribbean coast, with stunning colonial architecture, superb restaurants, and a languid, tropical atmosphere. The spirit of writer Gabriel García Márquez, who lived here part-time (some of his ashes were re-interred in the city in 2016), lives on in Cartagena like nowhere else (Love in the Time of Cholera was set here). Even today, the city remains renowned for its vibrant nightlife and stunning beach resorts.

Cartagena Neighborhoods

Most of the sights, restaurants, bars, and best hotels are in the walled Centro Histórico (Historic Center) and its attractive but grittier neighbor Getsemaní. To the south stand the skyscrapers of Bocagrande, Cartagena’s middle-class beach resort – it’s a fun strip to visit if you want to lounge on the sands, but nothing special. Most of Cartagena lies inland, a vast patchwork of suburbs with little in the way of attractions; however, the Manga and El Bosque neighborhoods near the harbor are becoming hubs for budget accommodations and nightlife.

Those on a budget should also consider the Zone Norte, a strip of beachside communities north of the city, beginning with El Cabrero, which is within walking distance of the Centro Histórico. Further up is Marbella, near the airport, with La Boquilla, beyond the city limits, offering a quieter experience.

South of the city are a series of islands, best known for their beaches and tranquil Caribbean setting. Tierra Bomba is located closest to Cartagena, offering beaches, historic ruins, and a vibrant Afro-Colombian community. Barú is attached to the mainland and is best known for Playa Blanca, a long, white-sand beach, and the more upscale resorts on its south coast. Finally, the Islas del Rosario offers self-contained resorts and beach clubs in warm, turquoise waters, all within short boat rides of Cartagena.

It’s easy to explore the Centro Histórico and Getsemaní on foot, although it’s hot and flat. With plenty of taxis available to go further afield (or to get around at night), it’s not necessary to rent a car if you’re staying in the city center. TransCaribe runs cheap and relatively reliable buses throughout the city. The most useful route links the Centro Histórico with Bocagrande, while other buses travel to Manga, along the Zona Norte, and to outer attractions, such as the Bazurto market.

Safety in Cartagena

The Centro Histórico is generally safe and well-policed, though the usual precautions should be taken at night. The same is true of Bocagrande, Manga, and Getsemaní, though muggings do sometimes occur – stay in well-lit and busy streets at night, and you should be fine. Petty theft and pickpocketing can be a problem, and motorbike riders can also snatch items from unsuspecting victims. Therefore, take care of your belongings and leave expensive items at home.

The Best Places to Stay in Cartagena

Best Neighborhoods in Cartagena for…

  • Best Neighborhood for First Timers/Sightseeing: Centro Histórico
    It can be expensive, but staying in the Historic Center makes sense for most visitors to Cartagena. Unless you want to spend time by the beach, this is where you’ll find the best hotels, restaurants, and sights, as well as the colonial streets, shaded plazas, and beautiful mansions the city is known for. The best way to soak up the old city center is to wander its photogenic, narrow streets, but there are a few highlights. The 17th-century Santuario de San Pedro Claver features a beautiful church and convent with a lush courtyard, while the Museo Naval del Caribe is the best history museum in the city (though the Museo Histórico on leafy Plaza de Bolívar is also worth a look). Cartagena is also renowned for its colonial Spanish defenses, largely intact (you can walk along its massive walls). However, its largest and most important fortification is Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, a vast stone structure just east of the Historic Center, which is now open as a museum.
  • Best Neighborhood on a Budget: Manga or Zona Norte
    Though there are excellent budget hostels in the Centro Histórico (and adjacent Getsemaní), the cheapest mid-range hotels and guesthouses are outside the city center. If you prefer being near the beach, consider El Cabrero, just north of the city walls, or other beach hotels in the Zona Norte. Otherwise, the sleepy residential district of Manga offers a range of good-value, mostly modern hotels, a short taxi ride from the Historic Center.
  • Best Neighborhood for Couples: Centro Histórico or Islas del Rosario
    For a couples’ city break, it’s hard to beat the Centro Histórico. It boasts beautiful colonial architecture, cobbled streets, blossom-strewn balconies, Colombian emerald stores, gourmet restaurants with stunning views, and some of the most luxurious boutique hotels on the continent. If you prefer a beach holiday, check out the exclusive resorts in the Islas de Rosario, a little more than 30 minutes by fast boat from Cartagena but a world away: tropical white-sand beaches, warm, clear waters, and tranquil, secluded island hideaways.
  • Best Neighborhood for Nightlife: Getsemaní
    Located just outside the walled city, Getsemaní is Cartagena’s most atmospheric neighborhood with a real sense of identity and tons of historic character, despite the growing number of hostels and boutique hotels sprouting up along its narrow, colonial streets. It’s a fascinating place to stay, especially for night owls. Calle Media Luna and Calle El Arsenal are the busiest streets, but you’ll find bars scattered across the neighborhood, with Plaza de la Trinidad particularly lively at night with food stalls and street performers.

    Highlights include the live music at Café Havana, the craft beers at Beer Lovers Cartagena, and the cocktails at La Baronesa De Cartagena and Mama Linda. In addition, the Media Luna Hostel hosts a fun weekly party on its rooftop every Wednesday dubbed “Visa para un Sueño.”

  • Best Neighborhood for Food and Restaurants: Centro Histórico and Getsemaní
    Cartagena has become a foodie destination in recent years, boasting excellent restaurants, especially in the Historical Center and, more recently, in Getsemaní. Highlights in the Historical Center include Mar y Zielo from Peruvian chef Mariano Cerna, the famed ceviche at El Boliche, the Cuban food at La Vitrola, and the fabulous pastries at Pastelería Mila. Ábaco Libros y Café is a charming coffee and bookstore, while Gelatería Paradiso is the best spot for ice cream. In Getsemaní, Celele is the best of a new wave of contemporary restaurants inspired by indigenous Colombian traditions. We also love the Caribbean dishes at Sierpe Cocina Caribe and the classic Colombian food at La Cocina de Pepina.
  • Best Neighborhood for Local Vibe: Manga
    Though Getsemaní has heaps of character, it’s also full of tourists. To feel more like a local, consider staying in one of the outer residential neighborhoods, such as Manga. It’s a safe, modern, relatively affluent neighborhood, with a mix of students and local workers mingling in the cafés and bars. Eureka Coffee House is a good place to hang out, though La Petite Gourmande is better for pastries. Sr. Miyagi Sushi Bar is an excellent Japanese-inspired restaurant overlooking the harbor, but we also enjoy Perros 3K for its affordable Colombian-style hot dogs.
  • Best Neighborhood for Families: Centro Histórico or Bocagrande
    Older kids will appreciate the range of attractions and the colonial Spanish atmosphere in the Historic Center, not to mention boat trips around the harbor on mock Spanish galleons, walks along the city walls, and climbs up the massive Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. It can be expensive to stay here; however, Charleston Santa Teresa and Santa Clara are great options for families, but they are pricey. You’ll find cheaper family rooms at resort-style hotels, as well as more apartment rentals, in Bocagrande. Here, you’ll also have access to the beach, which the kids will enjoy on hot afternoons (though the hotel pool will be much cleaner for swimming).
  • Best Places for Beaches: La Boquilla (Zona Norte) or Isla Barú/Islas del Rosario
    If a beach is a priority, you need to look beyond the main city neighborhoods – Bocagrande is convenient, but the water isn’t great, and the local beach vendors can be a hassle. It’s much quieter and cleaner up in La Boquilla, with a cluster of excellent hotels. The highly rated Radisson Cartagena Ocean Pavilion Hotel is less than 10 minutes by taxi from the airport and under 15 minutes from the Historic Center. The islands to the south – Isla Barú (Playa Blanca) or the Islas del Rosario have the best beaches. Stay here, and you’ll feel like you’re in the Caribbean. Though it’s rarely more than 30 minutes by fast boat to the Historic Center from here, you won’t want to be making the journey twice a day – the cost adds up.

    • The Best Places in Cartagena for Tourists

    Centro Histórico (Historic Center)

    Cartagena’s Centro Histórico (Historic Center) is the main attraction, at least for foreign visitors, so it makes sense to try and stay here – all the main sights, bars, and restaurants will be within walking distance. Wherever you stay, you’ll end up touring the old city at some point – it’s incredibly atmospheric and crammed with beautiful colonial architecture. The neighborhood borders are technically defined by its thick, 18th-century city walls (La Murallas), which you can walk along – everything else in Cartagena is considered “outside the walls.”

    The traditional heart of the city is the shaded Plaza de Bolívar, surrounded by some of Cartagena’s highlights: the old Palacio de la Inquisición, now the Museo Histórico, the local history museum; the Museo de Oro Zenú, with its priceless collection of pre-Hispanic goldwork; and the 17th-century cathedral, officially the Catedral Santa Catalina de Alejandría. It’s also worth checking out the early 17th-century church at the Santuario de San Pedro Claver, as well as the Colombian and Latin American modern art at the Museo de Arte Moderno. If you speak Spanish, the Museo Naval del Caribe chronicles Cartagena’s long relationship with the ocean; however, little is labeled in English. One of the prettiest mansions in the city lies just outside the walls – the Casa Museo Rafael Núñez was once the home of Rafael Núñez, a four-time Colombian president who also helped write the 1886 constitution and the national anthem.

    Though there are plenty of budget hostels, there’s very little in the mid-range – most hotels are expensive boutiques or luxury establishments. Those who prefer staying near a beach should also look elsewhere (there are no decent beaches within walking distance of the Centro Histórico).

    Some of Colombia’s best boutique hotels are here, though they are not cheap. Though you can score good deals in low season, the Historic Center lacks decent mid-range accommodation overall – try private rooms in some of the hostels listed below if you’re on a budget.

    From the Centro Histórico, you’ll need to take buses or taxis to get to the beach. The neighborhood can also be crowded with tourists, especially during peak times (November through New Year’s and the Easter holidays in Colombia).

    Getsemaní

    Just beyond the old city walls, Getsemaní is another neighborhood dripping with historic character – it’s our favorite place to stay in Cartagena. Its narrow streets, languid plazas, and colonial churches retain the atmosphere of old Cartagena despite the arrival of scores of hotels, restaurants, and bars – these days, Getsemaní is especially known for nightlife. It makes a great alternative to the Centro Histórico – though it can feel edgier, Getsemaní is generally safe these days (take the usual precautions at night).

    There aren’t many specific things to see – it’s much more enjoyable to wander the neighborhood, taking in the art and street life. The heart of Getsemaní is Plaza de la Trinidad, featuring a small colonial church and numerous food stalls and street performers at night. From here, you can stroll south along enchanting Calle del Pozo to tiny Plazuela del Pozo (a small square with an old well or “pozo”) or over to the “Calle de Las sombrillas” (a narrow alley shaded with candy-colored umbrellas, aka Callejón Angosto), and the huge murals on Calle de Lomba.

    Prices here are generally lower than in the Centro Histórico, though things can get noisy at night, especially at the weekends.

    Bocagrande

    Facing the Caribbean on a long peninsula south of the Centro Histórico, Bocagrande has been a major Colombian seaside resort since the 1960s. It’s an entirely modern creation, featuring all shiny white skyscrapers and condos, making it the complete opposite of the old city. However, comparisons with Miami Beach are a bit of a stretch. If you want to stay by a beach, it’s worth considering; it’s a short bus or taxi ride to the old city (making it far more convenient than the islands to the south), there are lots of bars and restaurants, and the local beach scene can be fun. On the other hand, it’s often busy, the water is too dirty to swim in, and you’ll have to deal with aggressive beach vendors (you’ll be asked if you want a massage every five minutes). Families should aim for the larger resort hotels that have pools and dedicated beach areas or Playa Castillo Grande at the southern end of the peninsula, which is less crowded.

    Bocagrande is worth considering if you want to stay on a beach but also be within easy striking distance of the Centro Histórico. But there are much better beaches elsewhere (see below).

    Families will find a wider selection of modern apartment rentals here, and rates tend to be more affordable than in the Centro Histórico at all comfort levels.

    Zona Norte (including Marbella & La Boquilla)

    The Zona Norte runs along the coast north of the city center. The beaches here aren’t great either, but it’s usually quieter than Bocagrande, with far fewer beach vendors to contend with. El Cabrero district lies just beyond the walls of the Centro Histórico, meaning you should be able to walk from your hotel; the beach is made up of a series of manufactured lagoons, some with beach umbrellas and chairs to rent, but it tends to be windy, and the water isn’t great for swimming. Rates at the smattering of hotels here tend to be low, making this a good target for budget-conscious travelers.

    Further up is Marbella (which includes Crespo, home to the airport), with a similar spread of mostly undeveloped beaches and a smattering of decent resort hotels (most with big pools, far better for swimming than the sea here). Inland, especially around the airport, you’ll find some excellent budget guesthouses.

    Finally, beyond the canal known as La Bocana lies La Boquilla, located beyond the city limits proper, with a much more tranquil beachfront, a series of good beach hotels, and more affordable guesthouses. Windsurfing and kitesurfing are popular up here – it tends to be breezy. Other than lounging on the seafront, the other popular activity in La Boquilla is taking a tour of the mangrove forests in the Ciénaga de Juan Polo lagoon behind the beachfront (where the canny tour guides have given names like the “Tunnel of Love” to natural openings in the undergrowth). Most of the fishing communities along the lagoon are very poor, a striking contrast to the condos and hotels being built along the coast.

    This area is worth considering if you want to be near a beach and the city center but want cheaper rates than Bocagrande (there are some great deals to be had). The downside – in addition to having to get buses and taxis everywhere – is that there are far fewer choices when it comes to eating and drinking up here.

    Families should consider the bigger rooms at resorts like the GHL Hotel Sunrise, Holiday Inn, or Radisson Pavillion; you can sightsee in the mornings and enjoy the pool, beach, or hotel facilities when it’s hot in the afternoons, at far cheaper rates than in the Centro Histórico or Bocagrande.

    Inland Cartagena: Manga

    Most Cartageneros live in the sprawling districts inland from the Centro Histórico and the beaches. There’s not much reason to spend time here, though history buffs should check out the huge bulk of the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, the 17th-century Spanish fortress that looms just to the east of the Historic Center (you can walk it or take a taxi). You’ll get the best views of the city center from the top. Further away (it’s best to take a taxi here) is the Convento de la Popa, the tiny, whitewashed chapel and convent that tops the 485-foot hill visible from all over the city – the views from the summit are spectacular. Founded by the Augustinians in 1606, this is where the city celebrates its patron saint, the Virgin of Candelaria, every February 2.

    At the foot of the hill, along the harbor, the chaotic Mercado Bazurto (Bazurto Market) is worth a visit for adventurous eaters; food stalls here sell all sorts of culinary delights, from shark and octopus rice to fried arepas. It has a bad reputation, but it’s not dangerous during the day (pickpockets can be a problem, though).

    When it comes to accommodations, the small residential island of Manga is the best place to stay; it’s a safe, relatively upscale area with plenty of good hotels at far cheaper rates than the city center. There are also lots of affordable places to eat, as well as the Club de Pesca, a venerable seafood restaurant. There’s not much to see apart from another old Spanish fortress, the Fuerte de San Sebastián del Pastelillo, but the waterfront promenade is a pleasant place to stroll, with superb views across the lagoon to Bocagrande. You could also consider El Bosque, the waterside neighborhood a bit further south from Manga, where there’s a smattering of cheap guesthouses, bars, restaurants, and even nightclubs such as Pley Club – staying here, you’ll feel a lot more like a local. Good hotels in El Bosque include Hotel Mar de Plata and Hotel Buenos Aires.

    Tierra Bomba Island

    Lying a short boat ride (10–15 minutes from Castillogrande) across the bay from Cartagena and Bocagrande, Tierra Bomba offers an entirely different experience. The beaches along the island’s north coast are lined with a series of beach clubs and cheap resort hotels, with far better sands and swimming than on the city beaches. Some areas do attract beach vendors (especially on weekends), but it’s usually much quieter out here.

    Accommodations range from comfortable (Éteka Beach) to affordable and cozy (Santuario Beach Hostel) – there are no luxury options. However, there are better resorts, such as Blue Apple Beach, located towards the southern end of the island. This is also where you’ll find the island’s main settlement, the relatively impoverished Afro-Colombian village of Bocachica. Locals will offer tours of the two local fortifications – entry to the forts is free. With no information on site, it’s a good idea to hire a local guide (though they’ll likely haggle for a substantial “tip” after the tour). You’ll also need to speak Spanish, as it’s rare for any of the locals to speak English. The smaller fortification stands on the hill above the village, known as the 18th-century Batería del Ángel San Rafael; the larger Fuerte de San Fernando lies along the coast.

    The beach resorts and hotels here, just a short boat ride from the city, are a step up from Bocagrande but not as idyllic as the more distant Islas del Rosario.

    Isla Barú & Islas del Rosario

    If you’re serious about a beach holiday, head to the islands further south of Cartagena and Tierra Bomba. Isla Barú, separated from the mainland by the Canal Dique, and the tiny Islas del Rosario boast fabulous tropical beaches, excellent resort hotels, and generally tranquil, hassle-free stays (though day-trippers can sometimes overwhelm certain locations). You wouldn’t stay here if you wanted to spend a lot of time in the Centro Histórico – the back and forth by boat would take up a lot of time and money – but you could easily make a couple of day trips while spending most of your vacation on the beach or in the water (it’s much cleaner out here).

    The main target on Isla Barú is gorgeous Playa Blanca on the northwestern shore, a two-mile strip of bone-white sands and turquoise waters lined by generally cheap cabañas and beach bars. In recent years, it’s become a lot busier, especially on the weekends, but during the week (especially in the mornings and evenings), you’ll have it mostly to yourself. Barú is quite big, and some of the best resorts can be found in the more secluded southern half of the island, most of which is protected within the Parque Nacional Natural Corales del Rosario. The only other attraction on Barú is the Aviario Nacional de Colombia, an aviary home to flamingos, macaws, toucans, peacocks, and other birds that have been rehabilitated or rescued from illegal traffickers and pet owners.

    Off the coast of Barú (some 12 miles from Cartagena by sea), the Islas del Rosario is an archipelago of small coral islands, much closer in spirit to the Caribbean ideal than anywhere else in or around Cartagena. Two major islands are protected within the Parque Nacional Natural Corales del Rosario, but most of the others are privately owned or sprinkled with resorts and beach clubs. This is a situation that has been highly controversial in Colombia, with environmentalists advocating for the entire archipelago to be free from development. Though most visitors come for the day (with packages purchased in the Centro Histórico), you’ll appreciate the islands far more by staying the night. Most hotels are scattered around the coast of the biggest island, Isla Grande, or on nearby Isleta – the beaches and snorkeling here are fabulous.

    You can buy tickets to the Islas del Rosario and Playa Blanca at La Bodeguita, the dock area just outside the Centro Histórico. However, most hotels will advise or make travel arrangements for you if you stay the night.

    Barú is also connected to the mainland by a bridge; taxis and shuttle buses run directly to Playa Blanca from Cartagena (ask at your hotel).

    Top Travel Tips for Cartagena

    • Cartagena Airport (aka Aeropuerto Internacional Rafael Núñez) is a short 10–15-minute taxi ride from the Centro Histórico. There’s not much point in staying near the airport, given how easy it is to get into the city. Still, Varanasi Hotel Boutique Aeropuerto, Casa Cano, and Casa Luna are all within walking distance of the terminal.
    • A lot of visitors like to get around Cartagena by bicycle, though this can be dusty and sweaty work. Bike & Arts (Media Luna 10–23) rents bikes and runs popular bike tours, as does Free Biking Tour Cartagena.
    • Though hotels and major tourist sites usually have English speakers on hand, don’t assume staff working in shops and restaurants will understand you. Try to learn a few words and numbers in Spanish.
    • Free wi-fi is available at Cartagena Airport and increasingly at cafés, bars, and tourist hotspots throughout the city itself.

About Santorini Dave

Santorini Dave Santorini Dave was started in 2011 when I posted a short guide to visiting Santorini with kids. Now, my small team and I provide guides to Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Mykonos, Crete, Athens, and all of Greece - as well as best places to stay in some of my favorite cities - like London, Paris, Barcelona, Rome, Venice, and Florence.

Questions? Email me at dave@santorinidave.com.