The rooftop bar at Johnnie Walker Princes Street has fantastic views over St John’s and St Cuthbert’s churches to Edinburgh Castle. Just east of here on Princes Street is the fabulous Balmoral, my favorite luxury hotel in Edinburgh.
Where to Stay in Edinburgh
Old Town is my favorite area for first-time visitors to Edinburgh. It’s the best location for sightseeing, with Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile, museums, restaurants, and pubs within walking distance. The Cheval Old Town Chambers is one of my favorite places to stay, especially for families. The main drawbacks are steep streets, cobblestones, and nightlife noise around Cowgate and Grassmarket.
New Town is my favorite alternative. It has excellent luxury hotels, restaurants, shopping, and convenient transportation connections. Old Town is a short walk away, and the streets are easier to navigate with luggage. The Balmoral, beside Waverley Station, is my top luxury hotel recommendation.
You can’t top the views over the city from Edinburgh Castle.
Stockbridge is best for a quieter neighborhood atmosphere. It’s a lovely residential area with independent shops, excellent restaurants, traditional pubs, and a Sunday market. The Raeburn is my favorite hotel here.
Leith is best for restaurants and bars. The Shore has some of Edinburgh’s best dining, and the tram makes it easy to reach central Edinburgh. It’s farther from the main sights but a good choice for visitors who have already explored Old Town.
Dean Village is beautiful but has very few hotels or restaurants. I recommend staying in the nearby West End if you want a quiet location within walking distance of New Town. The Bonham is an excellent choice.
Bruntsfield and Morningside are good for longer stays. These residential neighborhoods have independent shops, restaurants, pubs, and fewer tourists, but they’re less convenient for sightseeing.
Southside and Newington are good-value alternatives. Southside is close to Old Town and the University of Edinburgh, while Newington is farther south and more residential. Both have good access to Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat. Prestonfield, farther southeast, is best known for the luxurious Prestonfield House.
Book Edinburgh hotels early for August. The Edinburgh Festival Fringe, International Festival, and Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo make August the busiest and most expensive time for accommodations. Central hotels can sell out months ahead.
Edinburgh is compact but hilly. Old Town has steep streets, stairs, and uneven cobblestones. New Town is easier with luggage, though you’ll still encounter hills. The airport tram stops at Princes Street and St Andrew Square, both convenient for central hotels. Waverley Station is between Old Town and New Town, a short walk from St Andrew Square.
The Best Places to Stay in Edinburgh
The Balmoral is my favorite luxury hotel in Edinburgh. Its location beside Waverley Station is excellent for exploring both Old Town and New Town.
- Best Luxury Hotels in Edinburgh
Balmoral • Prestonfield House • Kimpton Charlotte Square- Best Boutique Hotels in Edinburgh
Witchery by the Castle • Tigerlily • Raeburn- Best Midrange Hotels in Edinburgh
Eden Locke • Stay Central • Grassmarket- Best Hotels for Families in Edinburgh
Cheval Old Town Chambers • Stay Central (good family room configurations, but a noisy nightlife location)Best Areas in Edinburgh for…
- Best for Sightseeing: Old Town
Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile, Palace of Holyroodhouse, and National Museum of Scotland are all in Old Town. New Town is a close second, particularly if you prefer shopping, restaurants, and easier transportation connections. Southside is another good option, especially near the Old Town boundary.Old Town is the best area for first-time visitors and families. The Cheval Old Town Chambers is just ahead on the left. We stayed here on our most recent visit and I can’t recommend it enough.
- Best for Nightlife: Old Town, New Town, and Southside
Old Town has traditional pubs, live music, and clubs, particularly around Cowgate and Grassmarket. Sandy Bell’s and The Royal Oak are favorites for folk music, while Cabaret Voltaire is a popular late-night venue. New Town is better for cocktails and upscale bars, including Tigerlily, The Bon Vivant, and Bramble. Southside has inexpensive student pubs and casual bars.- Best for Food and Restaurants: New Town, Old Town, and Leith
New Town has an excellent mix of restaurants, including Baba for Middle Eastern food, Dishoom for Indian, and The Dome for its grand setting. Old Town has traditional Scottish restaurants, pubs, and fine dining, including Witchery by the Castle and Angels with Bagpipes. Leith is worth visiting for The Kitchin, Restaurant Martin Wishart, and the seafood restaurants around The Shore.Old Town’s centrally located Grassmarket Hotel is close to Edinburgh Castle, restaurants, and pubs. The surrounding streets can be noisy at night.
- Best for Families: Old Town or Stockbridge
Old Town is the most convenient base for visiting Edinburgh Castle, Dynamic Earth, the Museum of Childhood, and the National Museum of Scotland. Stockbridge is quieter, with the Royal Botanic Garden nearby, but requires longer walks or bus rides to the main attractions. Morningside is another good option for longer family stays.- Best for First-Time Visitors: Old Town or New Town
Old Town is my first choice for sightseeing and historic atmosphere. New Town is almost as convenient, with excellent hotels, restaurants, and shopping. Both are good bases for exploring Edinburgh without a car.The Palace of Holyroodhouse, at the eastern end of the Royal Mile.
- Most Romantic: Old Town or Prestonfield
Old Town has two of Edinburgh’s most distinctive places to stay: Witchery by the Castle and Cheval Old Town Chambers. Prestonfield House is my pick for couples who want a luxurious hotel with beautiful grounds, excellent dining, and a quieter setting away from the center.- Best for a Local Neighborhood Atmosphere: Stockbridge, Bruntsfield, or Morningside
Stockbridge has independent shops, a Sunday market, and excellent neighborhood pubs and restaurants. Bruntsfield and Morningside are quieter residential areas with good cafes, traditional pubs, and independent shops. Southside has a younger, student-oriented atmosphere with inexpensive restaurants and bars.- Safety in Edinburgh
Central Edinburgh is generally safe, including Old Town, New Town, Stockbridge, and the main visitor areas of Leith. The biggest issues for tourists are occasional pickpocketing in crowded areas and late-night drunken behavior around Cowgate and Grassmarket. Normal city precautions are sufficient.
The opulent and historic Witchery by the Castle sits near Edinburgh Castle at the top of the Royal Mile. Even if you don’t stay here, its beautiful restaurant is worth visiting. Reservations are essential.
The 7 Best Neighborhoods in Edinburgh for Tourists
1. Old Town
Old Town is Edinburgh’s historic center and the best neighborhood for sightseeing. The Royal Mile runs between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, passing St Giles’ Cathedral, museums, historic closes, shops, and pubs. The National Museum of Scotland is also nearby.
The neighborhood has excellent restaurants and accommodations at every price level, from hostels to luxury hotels. Grassmarket is particularly good for pubs and restaurants, while the Royal Mile is the main sightseeing area.
Old Town is busy during the day and parts remain lively at night. Cowgate and Grassmarket have numerous bars and clubs, so choose your hotel carefully if you’re a light sleeper. During the August festivals, the Royal Mile becomes extremely crowded with visitors and street performers.
The fantastic Cheval Old Town Chambers has a wonderful location near St Giles’ Cathedral, about a 10-minute walk from Edinburgh Castle.
- Best Hotels in Old Town
Witchery by the Castle • Radisson Collection • Cheval Old Town Chambers- Best Cheap/Midrange Hotels
Castle Rock Hostel • Stay Central • Grassmarket2. New Town
New Town is immediately north of Princes Street Gardens and Waverley Station. Its wide Georgian streets, excellent restaurants, shopping, and luxury hotels make it one of Edinburgh’s best places to stay. George Street is particularly good for shopping, restaurants, and bars, while Princes Street has department stores and tram connections.
The main attractions include the Scottish National Gallery, Scottish National Portrait Gallery, and Scott Monument. The Scottish National Gallery has free admission to its permanent collection.
New Town is particularly convenient for travelers arriving by train or airport tram. Old Town is a short walk away, although the route involves some uphill walking.
The Scottish National Gallery is open daily, with free admission to its permanent collection.
Kimpton Charlotte Square is an excellent luxury hotel with an indoor pool, spa, and fitness facilities.
- Best Hotels in New Town
Balmoral • Tigerlily • Kimpton Charlotte Square- Best Cheap/Midrange Hotels
Cairn Hotel • Eden Locke • Ibis Styles St Andrew Square • Cityroomz3. Stockbridge
Stockbridge is a residential neighborhood northwest of New Town, about a 15-minute walk from its central shopping streets. It’s one of my favorite areas for independent shops, restaurants, traditional pubs, and a quieter atmosphere.
Raeburn Place is the main shopping and dining street, with cafes, delis, charity shops, and pubs. The Stockbridge Market runs on Sundays beside the Water of Leith, and the Royal Botanic Garden is a short walk north.
Stockbridge has relatively few hotels. It’s a good choice for travelers who don’t mind walking or taking a bus to the main sights. The walk back from New Town is uphill.
We love Stockbridge’s Raeburn Hotel for its comfortable rooms, excellent restaurant, and traditional pub atmosphere.
- Best Hotels in Stockbridge
Raeburn • Nira Caledonia (nearby New Town)- Best Cheap/Midrange Hotel
New Town Guest House4. Leith
Leith is Edinburgh’s historic port and one of the city’s best areas for restaurants, pubs, and bars. The Shore, where the Water of Leith meets the old docks, is the most attractive area, with waterfront restaurants and traditional pubs.
The main attraction is the Royal Yacht Britannia at Ocean Terminal. Other highlights include The Kitchin, Restaurant Martin Wishart, The Ship on the Shore, and the independent shops along Leith Walk.
The tram connects Leith with St Andrew Square, Princes Street, and Edinburgh Airport. Staying here is more practical than it used to be, although Old Town remains a better base for first-time sightseeing.
We spent a fun afternoon touring the Royal Yacht Britannia, which served the British royal family until 1997.
The stylish Chez Mal brasserie and bar at Malmaison in Leith.
- Best Hotel in Leith
Malmaison- Best Cheap/Midrange Hotel
Holiday Inn Express Leith5. Dean Village
Dean Village is a quiet former milling village beside the Water of Leith, about a 10-minute walk from the western end of New Town. Its stone houses, bridges, and riverside walking paths make it one of Edinburgh’s prettiest areas.
There are very few hotels, shops, or restaurants in Dean Village itself. The nearby West End is a more practical place to stay, with good hotels and restaurants within walking distance. The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is a short walk west of the village.
The Bonham is an excellent hotel in the West End, a short walk from Dean Village. It’s a good choice for travelers who prefer a quieter location but still want to walk to central Edinburgh.
- Best Hotel near Dean Village
Bonham- Best Cheap/Midrange Hotel
B+B Edinburgh6. Bruntsfield & Morningside
Bruntsfield and Morningside are adjoining residential neighborhoods southwest of Old Town. Both have excellent cafes, independent shops, restaurants, and traditional pubs, with fewer tourists than central Edinburgh.
Bruntsfield is closer to the center, with the open green space of Bruntsfield Links and The Meadows nearby. Morningside is farther south and home to the historic, family-run Dominion Cinema. Both neighborhoods have frequent bus connections to central Edinburgh.
These areas are best for longer stays or visitors who prefer residential neighborhoods to sightseeing convenience.
Black Ivy has large, comfortable rooms and a great location overlooking Bruntsfield Links.
- Best Hotels in Bruntsfield & Morningside
Black Ivy • Lane Boutique Hotel- Best Cheap/Midrange Hotel
Martin’s Guesthouse7. Southside, Newington, & Prestonfield
Holyrood Park is one of Edinburgh’s best places for hiking and city views, with Arthur’s Seat rising above the surrounding neighborhoods.
Southside and Newington lie south of Old Town, along the main route toward the University of Edinburgh and Holyrood Park. Southside is closer to the center, with the Royal Mile and National Museum of Scotland within walking distance. Newington is farther south, with more residential streets, guesthouses, and inexpensive restaurants.
The University of Edinburgh gives Southside a student-oriented atmosphere, with plenty of pubs, coffee shops, and casual restaurants. Surgeons’ Hall Museums and the university’s Anatomical Museum are nearby. Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat are convenient for walking and hiking.
Prestonfield is a separate, quieter residential neighborhood southeast of Holyrood Park. Its main attraction for visitors is Prestonfield House, a luxurious country-house-style hotel with extensive grounds and excellent dining. It’s a destination hotel rather than a convenient sightseeing base.
- Best Hotel in Southside, Newington, & Prestonfield
Prestonfield House- Best Cheap/Midrange Hotels
Dorstan Guesthouse • Ibis Centre South Bridge • Ten Hill Place
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