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Where to Stay on Hvar Island, Croatia

By Santorini Dave

A view from high up on a hill of the ocean, small islands and a town with red shingled roofs.

Our gorgeous view of the harbor from the Fortress at the top of Hvar Old Town.

The Best Areas to Stay on Hvar Island

Long, lush, and mountainous, Hvar is a popular resort island that is always bustling with visitors due to its proximity (just an hour or so by ferry) from the major international gateway of Split. Hvar offers nightlife, history, charm, gorgeous water views, and culinary specialties like grilled squid and fish from the Adriatic Sea.

The island’s main town and transport hub is also called Hvar and is one of the oldest settlements in modern-day Croatia. Although renowned for its hilltop fortress, vast plaza, and adorable Old Town, several other places to stay on the island are worth considering.

Hvar Island may look long, but most areas of interest are on the western third of the island between Hvar Town and Jelsa. The rest of the island is isolated, although Sućuraj has a car ferry to the mainland.

Towns on Hvar Island

The hilltop fortress overlooks the historic and atmospheric Hvar Old Town and port. At the harbor, ferries unload thousands of passengers daily in summer, some just day-tripping. Within a few minutes walk of the harbor is the vast main square and the beginning of the charming steep laneways that meander through the town.

Places to stay Outside Hvar Old Town are generally more spacious and of better value than in the Old Town. To the west and the southeast, hotels, and resorts – some quite large – provide views, tranquility, and facilities (like pools and watersports).

The island’s second-largest town, Stari Grad, is regularly connected by bus to Hvar Town and Split by car/passenger ferry. The long, narrow, and pretty harbor is flanked along one side by the compact, colorful, and pleasingly flat Old Town and, on the other side, by family-focused resorts between forests and the sea.

Less than halfway across the island and connected by daily buses are the twin towns of Jelsa and Vbroska, also connected via a coastal path/road (a one-hour walk). Island-hopping boat trips from Hvar Town and Split are popular, and both towns can get crowded for an hour or so during the day, but then revert to being sleepy.

Keep in mind that most of the Old Town in Hvar is steep. Except for a few harbor-side hotels, 95% of accommodations will only be accessible via old, stony steps. There are no handrails, and you must carry your luggage. If this is a concern, consider staying in Stari Grad. It’s only 30 minutes by bus and just as picturesque.

A large pool with lots of lounge chairs.

We loved the pool at Amfora, outside of Hvar Old Town.

The Best Places to Stay on Hvar Island

Best Areas on Hvar Island for…

  • Best Area on Hvar Island for First-Time Visitors: Stari Grad
    Just 30 minutes by bus from Hvar Town is the island’s original capital, Stari Grad. The area is almost sleepy. It offers quiet cafés, a compact and flat Old Town, and lower prices than in Hvar Town. Stari Grad is also an ideal base for visiting the lovely towns of Jelsa and Vrboska by bus. Although Hvar Town is certainly worth visiting for a day, it is possible to avoid Hvar Town altogether by using ferries between Split and Stari Grad or Jelsa.

    A bike leans against a stone wall outside a restaurant.

    Eremitaž restaurant in the Old Town at Stari Grad has indoor and outdoor seating next to the water.

  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Sightseeing: Hvar Old Town
    Hvar Town is home to prime attractions, such as the hilltop fortress, vast St Stephen’s Square, and all the narrow alleyways between the two. The Old Town is also the place to organize boat trips around Hvar Island and other regional islands (see Boat Trips later) or to hop on a ferry and day trip to Korčula Island or Split via Brač Island. Most tourist facilities, especially accommodations and sightseeing tours, are based here.
  • Best Area on Hvar Island for History: Hvar Old Town
    Although Stari Grad was the island’s original capital, Hvar Town is steeped in history. The Old Town has two main focal points. The first is the large but unnamed 16th-century fortress (sometimes called a citadel) based on a hill and only accessible to tourists via a series of steps. At the top are outstanding views, some pleasant gardens, the fortress, and a museum. The other main attraction is St Stephen’s Square, with the namesake 17th-century cathedral (and bell tower) at one end. The Old Town is between the fortress and square, packed with stone houses, many used for hotels and guesthouses. Elsewhere are relics of Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian rule, including walls and gates of the fortress that spread downhill from the main structure.

    An old stone fortress sits with trees.

    The fortress on top of the Hvar Old Town.

  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Vibe: Stari Grad
    The island’s fascinating culture and long history are evident in the smaller towns of Jelsa, Vrboska, and, especially, Stari Grad. There may not be much evidence of its history, but Stari Grad is unhurried, instantly likable, and far less affected by mass tourism. Except for an hour or so each day when passengers arrive on island-hopping boat trips. The vast U-shaped harbor is a joy to walk around or cycle along. Fishing boats pack the marina, bringing in the freshest possible seafood. Also, the cafes are quiet and well-priced, the shops are cute and inviting, and the pebbly beach is wide and rarely used.
  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Nightlife: Hvar Old Town
    Hvar Town (but not the rest of the island) has a much-lauded nightlife vibe. It brings in hundreds of ferry passengers daily. The Old Town is about socializing and drinking at one of the many bars around the main square and ferry terminal that provide music and extended hours. Those seeking a leisurely evening meal of wine, seafood, and pasta can easily find an adorable restaurant along laneways within the Old Town.
  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Shopping: Hvar Old Town
    Hvar Town offers the best range of shopping simply because it is the primary destination on the island. The Old Towns of Stari Grad, Jelsa, and Vrboska offer some cute shops (some almost like holes-in-the-wall). These often sell touristy items such as products made from dried lavender.

    Purple and red small dolls hang on a sales rack.

    Tourist shops in Jelsa sell dolls stuffed with dried lavender.

  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Beaches: Outside of Hvar Old Town
    There are no natural beaches with sand in this part of the Adriatic, but there are places on Hvar Island for sunbathing and swimming in calm, shallow, turquoise-colored water. Beaches just outside Hvar Old Town are wide, clean, and not that overcrowded because many prefer their hotel pool. These beaches are in two convenient areas connected by paths that offer gorgeous views and are ideal for cycling. Just west of the Old Town and marina are two beaches called Bonj (in front of the Amfora resort) and Hula Hula. There are classy beach bars and so many umbrellas and lounge chairs for rent that it’s hard to find space to lay down a towel. Just past the ferry terminal is an enticing cove in front of the Beach Bay, with some shade but no umbrellas. All beaches are open to the public.
  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Boat Trips: Outside of Hvar Old Town
    Boat tours go around Hvar Island, including the lovely towns of Stari Grad, Jelsa, and Vrboska, and to neighboring islands like Brač, Korčula, and, especially, the Pakleni Islands with its beaches, archaeological sites, restaurants, and walking paths. Boat trips like sailing, sunset cruises, and kayaking are unique and can be personalized. Kiosks offering boat trips line the ferry terminal in Hvar Town, but the best place to purchase tickets is just outside it. Follow the dazzling coastal path between the marina and hotels (like the Amfora) with kiosks selling the same island-hopping tours. However, prices are lower, and agents are likely to sell you a tour that suits your needs and budget.

    An old sailboat made of wood and painted dark green docks on shore.

    Island-hopping cruise boat at Jelsa.

  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Restaurants: Hvar Old Town
    Hvar Island is known for its locally sourced Mediterranean cuisine. Old Town offers the best selection of eateries, impressive service, and extensive menus, including seafood fresh from the Adriatic, pizza, and pasta. Cafés facing the ferry terminal and around the main square are more for drinking than eating, but those along the steep laneways around the Old Town are quaint and quiet and offer delicious meals. Many are just a handful of tables huddled along an alleyway.
  • Best Area on Hvar Island Without a Car: Hvar Old Town
    While we generally don’t recommend bringing a car to a small island, the poor bus services will necessitate a vehicle to explore. Renting a car – or, if experienced, a motorbike – is easy to organize at agencies around the ferry terminal, main square, and, especially, the bus station. We do not recommend renting/using an all-terrain vehicle because these can be especially dangerous. If you aren’t renting a car, you can either stay solely in Hvar Town and book organized tours from agencies or catch buses to the charming towns of Stari Grad, Jelsa, and Vrboska.
  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Transport: Hvar Old Town
    The good news is that the bus station is convenient: just behind the cathedral in front of the main square in the Old Town. The bad news is that services are infrequent, even to the popular towns of Stari Grad, Jelsa, and Vrboska. All three are worth visiting, but the schedule (with even fewer buses on weekends) makes it very difficult to visit more than one place in one day. Nonetheless, buses run by Cazmatrans are reliable and cheap. (Pay on board with cash.) The ferry also leaves daily to/from Split from Hvar Town, while the ferry terminal for cars (and foot passengers) is at Sućuraj at the far eastern tip of the island.

    A bus driver points to a crowd of people loading a bus.

    We rode the Cazmatrans.

  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Families: Stari Grad
    Hvar Town has a lack of accommodations for those with kids. So, jump on the next available bus and stay in the quiet, laidback town of Stari Grad (which also has ferry services to Split). The Old Town in Stari Grad is flat, and the extended harbor is attractive and ideal for walking/cycling. Especially appealing are the large resorts – for example, PLACES and Valamar Amicor – that cater almost exclusively for families with pools, waterslides, tennis courts, beach volleyball, and so on.
  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Couples: Jelsa
    Stari Grad or, even better, Jelsa, is so relaxed. In Jelsa, the harbor/marina is beautiful, many restaurants face the water, island-hopping boat trips are available, and you can visit a winery shop or an olive oil factory. Jelsa is also ideal for bus trips to Vrboska and Stari Grad, both of which are as loveable as Jelsa. The walk (one hour) – or ride by rented bicycle – along the lovely coastal path/road between Jelsa and Vrboska is romantic for its stunning views and secluded pebble beaches.

    Small boats sit tied to a stone pier.

    The gorgeous harbor in Jelsa.

Boats sit in a blue harbor with a small town on a hill.

Our view of the harbor Outside of Hvar Old Town from our room at the Adriana Hotel.

The 4 Best Areas on Hvar Island for Tourists Ordered From Hvar Old Town Out.

1. Hvar Old Town

Tourists stand in a sun-bleached square.

We enjoyed our trip to St Stephen’s Square and St Stephen’s Cathedral.

Most visitors want to stay in the historic and ambient Old Town, which stretches from the picturesque (and busy) ferry terminal to the impressive fortress perched on a steep hill. Like others along the Croatian coast, history, charm, and shops along narrow paths pack the Old Town, spreading out from the spacious St Stephen’s Square. The Old Town is the prime base for amenities like restaurants, car/motorbike rental, public transport, and attractions like nightlife, boat trips, and shopping.

With several world-class boutique hotels, the Old Town is perfect for those on a romantic getaway, although nothing can be recommended for families. Very few hotels are in the moderate range, but there are masses of privately run rooms and apartments of varying quality.

2. Outside of Hvar Old Town

Lounge chairs on the beach.

We rented chairs at Bonj Beach.

Outside the Old Town are excellent accommodations in two quieter and less crowded areas. (1) Along the shoreline immediately west of the scenic marina, upscale hotels and large resorts face the ocean. They are easy to access from the Old Town along a flat coastal path with stunning views of the sea, islands, and hills. (2) The area just south and east of the ferry terminal isn’t that hilly either, and most places to stay are also within walking distance of the Old Town (or take a taxi).

Tan cushioned lounge chairs sit by the water.

Hula Hula Beach.

Most hotels outside the Old Town offer the sort of space, views, and facilities (like swimming pools and tennis courts) not possible in the Old Town. Both areas also offer pebbly beaches with lounge chairs for rent; cafés and bars alongside the sea; paths ideal for cycling; kiosks offering watersports like kayaking and paddle-boarding; and agencies selling a range of enticing boat trips.

A multi-story building sits by a small harbor with several anchored boats.

The Adriana Hotel sits on the harbor and has beautiful views.

Lounge chairs sit around a small pool.

Moeesy Blue & Green Oasis has a small pool with great views.

A hotel next to a pebble beach.

Beach Bay is our favorite cheap hotel because of its terrific location next to the beach and it’s walkable to the Old Town.

  • Best Luxury Hotels Outside of Hvar Old Town
    Adriana • Amfora • Moeesy Blue & Green Oasis • Pharos
  • Best Boutique Hotels
    Moeesy Blue & Green Oasis • Podstine • Adriana
  • Best Privately-run Rooms & Apartments
    Mare • Marisa • Kampanel • Margita • Frane
  • Best Cheap/Midrange Hotels
    Beach Bay • Guest House Aurora • Guest House Kovacevic • Goran’s Place
  • Best Hotels for Families
    Amfora • Pharos

    • 3. Stari Grad

    Beige stone buildings surround a small marina.

    We walked around the Stari Grad marina.

    The island’s second-largest settlement is a pleasant 30-minute bus trip from Hvar Town. We believe that Stari Grad (which means “Old Town”) is even more appealing than Hvar Town because it’s flat, far less crowded, and everything is considerably cheaper.

    A couple wanders a cream-colored stone walkway with buildings the same color and stone with green shutters.

    Old town in Stari Grad.

    A navy-blue sign on a wrought iron gate states it's a UNESCO-Heritage Site.

    Archaeological Site FAROS (UNESCO-listed ruins).

    Yes, the Old Town at Stari Grad is much smaller and can’t boast a hilltop fortress, but the huge U-shaped harbor flanked by the Old Town, major resorts, and forests is quite stunning. With enough places to eat, drink, and stay to satisfy anyone, Stari Grad is ideal for first-time visitors, while families would also appreciate the spacious child-friendly resorts within a 30-minute walk of the town center (or quicker by water taxi).

    A large ferry produces light blue and white waves as it moves away from shore.

    A ferry departs from Stari Grad.

    The only downside is the limited service from Hvar Town by bus, which stops at the Stari Grad ferry terminal. But with some planning, Stari Grad is an easy and enjoyable day trip; better still, stay there and use it as a base for visiting Hvar Town, Jelsa, and Vrboska. And don’t forget: Stari Grad is linked several times a day by car/passenger ferry to Split – although the ferry terminal at Stari Grad is a hilly 40-minute walk from the town center.

A large blue pool sits next to a restaurant.

The PLACES pool has lounge chairs and a restaurant and is our favorite 4-Star Hotel & Best Hotel at the Beach.

Cushioned lounge chairs line a blue pool at the end of a blue waterslide.

We enjoyed the pool and water slide at Valamar Amicor and it’s our favorite hotel for families.

  • Best Luxury Hotels in Stari Grad
    Valamar Amicor • Maslina Resort • PLACES

  • Best Boutique Hotel
    Town House Rosario
  • Best Privately-run Rooms & Apartments
    Residence Bella • Apartments Renko • Apartments Lotti
  • Best Cheap/Midrange Hotels
    Madrugada Old City •

  • Best Cheap/Midrange Hotels
    Arkada
  • Best Hotels for Families
    Valamar Amicor • PLACES

    • 4. Jelsa and Vrboska

    People stand in line for gelato.

    We had to stop for gelato in the Jelsa main square.

    The twin villages of Jelsa and Vrboska are along the northeast coast and within a 40-minute bus trip from Hvar Town (via Stari Grad). Quieter and more relaxed than Stari Grad, both towns seem ideal for couples and a world away from the hustle and bustle of Hvar Town. A reasonably flat coastal path/road connects the towns (one hour on foot; quicker by rented bicycle), which passes scenic lookouts, isolated (pebbly) beaches, and secluded villas.

    Two people cycle on the path.

    Cycling on the path.

    With a little organization, it is possible to catch a bus to Jelsa, walk to Vrboska, and then get the afternoon bus back to Hvar Town – or vice versa. And with boat trips, cycling paths, a winery, an olive oil factory, and a ferry straight into the town center from Split, Jelsa is a worthy alternative to Hvar Town.

    Some decent, mid-priced options are available for families in both towns but little in the boutique range. There are plenty of privately run accommodations.

A table sits on a tile patio overlooking the sea.

The views if the tennis courts and sea from Hotel Hvar in Jelsa.

An arch covers a path to a front door.

Rubin Jelsa (private rooms).

Hvar Island Travel Tips

  • Some luxury resorts with pools, tennis courts, etc, are within walking distance of the Old Towns in Hvar Town and Stari Grad. This may be somewhere to splurge on 4-star accommodations – especially during the shoulder season (April and October) when bargains are possible.
  • Bus services are infrequent, so consider renting a car – or, if experienced, a motorbike – to explore the island.
  • The crowds in Hvar Town can come as a surprise after visiting Korčula and other smaller islands. Hvar does attract younger crowds who fly into Split on direct tourist flights and quickly hop on ferries to Hvar (about one hour).
  • Almost without exception, every restaurant in the Old Town can be described as upscale – with prices to match. In fact, we found nowhere to eat in or around the Old Town that could be described as budget-priced.

Our Favorite Hvar Island Hotels

5-Star Hotel: Riva Marina
Faultless location alongside the ferry terminal and on the edge of the Old Town, everything is so charming, historic, and elegant.

4-Star Hotel: PLACES
Spectacular setting facing the harbor at Stari Grad, with fantastic facilities and sea views, yet so convenient to the historic (and flat) Old Town.

Boutique: Moeesy Blue & Green Oasis
Tucked away in a suburb accessible by road and coastal path to the Old Town, the name may be odd, but the amenities and service are outstanding.

Cheap: Beach Bay
Beachfront position and ocean views that 5-star resorts could only dream about, yet still walkable to the Old Town and great value, too.

For Family: Valamar Amicor
Tennis courts, massive pools with waterslides, games rooms, and seaside gardens, but just a quick bicycle trip from Stari Grad. What’s not to love?

Couples: Heritage
Classic Old Town setting with courtyard dining, heavenly rooms, and modern amenities, but still oozing so much history and ambiance.

Views: Adriana
Impeccable harbor-side position alongside the Old Town, where rooms with wide windows seem to be almost on top of the water.

Pool: Amfora
Must be seen to be believed: truly enormous, with waterfalls, substantial and separate areas for children, sea views, and lounge chairs for everyone.

Beach: PLACES
Alongside an extended, quiet, and convenient beach of pebbles (as usual), the likable seaside vibe is enhanced by shade, views, cabanas, and a pool.

About Santorini Dave

Santorini Dave I'm Santorini Dave. I started this site in 2011 with a short article on tips for visiting Santorini with kids. We're now a small team of writers and researchers dedicated to providing the best travel content on the internet. We focus on Santorini, Mykonos, Athens, and Greece, offering recommendations for top hotels, neighborhoods, and family-friendly hotels worldwide. I can be contacted at dave@santorinidave.com.