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Where to Stay on Hvar Island, Croatia

By Santorini Dave • Updated: July 16

A view from high up on a hill of the ocean, small islands and a town with red shingled roofs.

Gorgeous view of the harbor from the Fortress at the top of Hvar Old Town.

Choosing where to stay on Hvar Island comes down to two decisions: stay in Hvar Town for ferries, restaurants, nightlife, boat trips, and the easiest first visit, or stay elsewhere for quieter evenings, easier parking, larger resorts, and better value.

For a short stay or a trip without a car, I recommend Hvar Town. Stay in the Old Town for immediate access to the harbor and main sights, or just west of the center for pools, beaches, and less nighttime noise. For families, drivers, and longer stays, Stari Grad is the better base. Jelsa and Vrboska suit couples and repeat visitors who want a smaller, slower harbor town and do not mind fewer restaurants and limited public transport.

Quick Hotel Picks on Hvar Island

  • Best overall location: Riva Marina Hotel – Directly on Hvar’s waterfront beside the passenger-ferry landing, restaurants, bars, and Old Town. Excellent for a short stay, but harbor-facing rooms can hear late-night activity.
  • Best luxury hotel: Palace Elisabeth Hvar Hotel – Hvar Town’s most polished historic hotel, overlooking the main square and harbor. The location, spa, and views justify the price for a special trip.
  • Best luxury resort: Maslina Resort – A secluded resort near Stari Grad with a beach, spa, pools, and significantly more privacy than hotels in Hvar Town. Best with arranged transfers or a car.
  • Best boutique hotel for couples: Moeesy Blue & Green Oasis – An adults-only retreat west of Hvar Town with pools, gardens, sea access, and a pleasant coastal walk into the center.
  • Best for families: Valamar Amicor Resort – The island’s strongest family resort, with villas, pools, a waterpark, sports facilities, and children’s activities near Stari Grad.
  • Best pool near Hvar Town: Amfora (Grand Beach Resort) – A large seaside resort with an extensive pool complex and more space than central hotels, about a 10 to 15-minute waterfront walk from Hvar Old Town.
  • Best beachside value near Hvar Town: Beach Bay Hvar Hotel – A small hotel beside a pebbly cove, around 10 minutes on foot from the harbor. It has no pool, but the location is peaceful for somewhere so central.
  • Best relaxed hotel in Stari Grad: PLACES Hvar by Valamar – A casual waterfront resort with pools, beach access, and a more adult-oriented atmosphere than neighboring Valamar Amicor.

The Best Areas to Stay on Hvar Island

Hvar Town is the best place to stay on Hvar Island for most first-time visitors. Passenger catamarans arrive at the harbor, and the island’s best concentration of restaurants, nightlife, historic sights, boat trips, water taxis, and hotels is within a compact area.

Stay in Hvar Old Town for immediate access to St Stephen’s Square, the harbor, restaurants, and nightlife. The waterfront is mostly level, but accommodation behind it may involve steep stone lanes and long flights of steps. Hotels west of the Old Town offer pools, beaches, larger rooms, and quieter evenings while remaining about 5 to 25 minutes from the center on foot.

Stari Grad is the best alternative for families, drivers, longer stays, and travelers who want a calmer base. Its historic center is flatter, less crowded, and generally less expensive than Hvar Town. It also has Hvar Island’s main car-ferry port, although the terminal is approximately 2 kilometers from the town center.

Jelsa is best for couples seeking a relaxed harbor town with waterfront dining and nearby swimming. Vrboska is smaller and quieter, making it better for cycling, peaceful evenings, and travelers with a rental car. Both have fewer hotels, restaurants, tours, and transport connections than Hvar Town or Stari Grad.

  • Best overall for first-time visitors: Hvar Town
  • Best for sightseeing, nightlife, restaurants, and boat trips: Hvar Old Town
  • Best for beaches and resort facilities near Hvar Town: Outside Hvar Old Town
  • Best for families, drivers, and a quieter stay: Stari Grad
  • Best for couples seeking a relaxed harbor town: Jelsa
  • Best for peace, cycling, and a village atmosphere: Vrboska
  • Best without a car: Hvar Town
  • Best with a car: Stari Grad

Hvar is a long island, and the ferry ports are far apart. Passenger catamarans connect Split with Hvar Town, while the larger Split to Stari Grad ferry carries vehicles and foot passengers. Sućuraj, at the eastern end of the island, has a car-ferry connection to Drvenik but is roughly a two-hour drive from Hvar Town.

A large pool with lots of lounge chairs.

The pool at Amfora, outside of Hvar Old Town.

The Best Places to Stay on Hvar Island

Best Areas on Hvar Island for…

  • Best Area on Hvar Island for First-Time Visitors: Hvar Town
    Hvar Town is the best base for most first-time visitors, particularly for a two or three-night stay without a car. Passenger catamarans arrive at the harbor, and St Stephen’s Square, Fortica Fortress, restaurants, nightlife, boat tours, water taxis, and the main bus station are all within a compact area.

    Stay in Hvar Old Town for the easiest access to the harbor and main sights. The waterfront and St Stephen’s Square are mostly level, but accommodations behind them may require a steep climb over polished stone lanes and long flights of steps. Staying west of the harbor near Adriana, Bonj Beach, or Amfora adds a 5 to 15-minute waterfront walk but provides pools, swimming access, and quieter nights.

    The drawbacks are high summer prices, heavy daytime crowds, late-night noise around the harbor, and difficult luggage access at many Old Town properties. Families, drivers, and travelers seeking a calmer, flatter base may prefer Stari Grad.

  • Best Area on Hvar Island for Sightseeing & History: Hvar Old Town
    Hvar Old Town is the best base for sightseeing and historic atmosphere. St Stephen’s Square, St Stephen’s Cathedral, the Arsenal, the historic public theater, the waterfront, monasteries, churches, old defensive walls, and the route up to Fortica Fortress are all reached on foot. Water taxis and most organized boat trips also leave from the harbor, reducing the need for buses or taxis.

    The harbor and main square are mostly level, but the Old Town rises steeply behind them. Reaching the fortress requires a sustained uphill walk with many steps, and hotels higher in the stone lanes can be awkward with luggage or limited mobility. Waterfront accommodation offers easier access but is more exposed to ferry activity, restaurant noise, and late-night crowds.

    Choose Hvar Old Town if major sights, restaurants, and atmosphere matter more than space, quiet, or resort facilities. Stari Grad has the island’s older history and the UNESCO-listed Stari Grad Plain, but Hvar Old Town offers the stronger concentration of monuments and is the more convenient sightseeing base.

    • An old stone fortress sits with trees.

    The fortress on top of the Hvar Old Town.

    • Best Area on Hvar Island for a Quiet Stay: Stari Grad
      Stari Grad is the best choice for travelers who want calm evenings without feeling isolated. Its long harbor has enough restaurants, cafés, and wine bars for several nights, but it avoids the late-night crowds and beach-club scene of Hvar Town.

      The historic center is compact and mostly flat, making it easier with luggage, strollers, or limited mobility than Hvar Old Town. Hotels and family resorts west of the center are generally 20 to 30 minutes away on foot, so staying near the harbor is better for frequent dinners in town.

      Choose Stari Grad for waterfront meals, quiet walks, and a slower pace. Hvar Town is the better option for nightlife, boat tours, and the widest choice of restaurants.

    • Best Area on Hvar Island for Nightlife: Hvar Old Town
      Hvar Old Town is the only strong choice for nightlife on the island. Bars cluster around the harbor, St Stephen’s Square, and the surrounding lanes, while beach clubs and sunset venues continue west of the center. The scene is busiest in July and August and often continues well past midnight.

      Staying near the harbor makes it easy to walk home, but rooms facing the Riva or busy lanes can be noisy. Light sleepers should stay toward the quieter edges of the Old Town or west of the harbor, where the main nightlife remains roughly 5 to 15 minutes away on foot.

      Choose Hvar Old Town if bars and late nights are an important part of the trip. Stari Grad and Jelsa have pleasant evening drinking and dining but no comparable nightlife scene.

    • Best Area on Hvar Island for Shopping: Hvar Old Town
      Hvar Old Town has the island’s widest selection of clothing boutiques, jewelry, local food products, wine, lavender goods, souvenirs, and small art shops. Most stores are concentrated around St Stephen’s Square, the Riva, and the pedestrian lanes behind them.

      Hvar Town has a small selection of international designer and luxury-brand shops, especially around the waterfront and central lanes, though it is not a major luxury-shopping destination like Dubrovnik or Split. Stari Grad, Jelsa, and Vrboska have smaller collections of independent shops and locally made products, but they are better for casual browsing than serious shopping.

    Purple and red small dolls hang on a sales rack.

    Tourist shops in Jelsa sell dolls stuffed with dried lavender.

    • Best Area on Hvar Island for Beaches: Outside Hvar Old Town
      The coast immediately west of Hvar Old Town is the best place to stay for easy swimming without giving up access to the island’s main restaurants, nightlife, and ferries. The shoreline has pebble beaches, rocky coves, and paved swimming platforms rather than long stretches of sand.

      A mostly level coastal path runs past Bonj Beach, Amfora, Hula Hula, and several smaller swimming spots. Hotels in this area are generally 10 to 25 minutes from St Stephen’s Square on foot, though some sit uphill from the waterfront. Southeast of the harbor, Beach Bay Hvar Hotel overlooks a small pebbly cove about a 10-minute walk from the ferry landing and Old Town.

      Choose this area for the best balance of beach access and Hvar Town convenience. Jelsa and Vrboska offer quieter coves and easier access to beaches such as Grebišće, but they have fewer restaurants, tours, and transport connections. Expect pebbles throughout the island, and note that loungers, umbrellas, beach-club seating, and some hotel facilities require payment or a minimum order.

    • Best Area on Hvar Island for Boat Trips: Hvar Old Town
      Hvar Old Town is the best place to stay for boat trips because water taxis, group excursions, private charters, sailing trips, kayaking tours, and speedboats leave from or near the harbor. The Pakleni Islands are the main draw and are reached in roughly 10 to 30 minutes, depending on the beach, restaurant, and type of boat.

      Staying near the harbor makes early departures and evening returns easy, with no need for a bus or taxi. It is especially useful for travelers planning more than one day on the water or visiting the Pakleni Islands independently by water taxi. The drawback is that waterfront accommodation is expensive and can be noisy in summer. Stari Grad and Jelsa offer some boat trips, but Hvar Town has by far the widest choice and the easiest access to the Pakleni Islands.

    An old sailboat made of wood and painted dark green docks on shore.

    Island-hopping cruise boat at Jelsa.

    • Best Area on Hvar Island for Restaurants: Hvar Old Town
      Hvar Old Town has the island’s largest and most varied restaurant selection, from seafood and traditional Dalmatian cooking to pizza, pasta, modern tasting menus, cafés, wine bars, and cocktails. Staying near St Stephen’s Square or the harbor puts dozens of options within a 5 to 10-minute walk, while restaurants in the lanes behind the waterfront tend to feel quieter and more intimate.

      The main drawback is cost. Hvar Town has some of the island’s highest menu prices, and restaurants with the most prominent waterfront locations are not always the strongest. In July and August, reservations are useful for popular places, especially for dinner after 8pm.

      Choose Hvar Old Town if restaurant variety and the ability to walk to dinner every night matter most. Stari Grad is the best alternative for calmer waterfront dining and generally better value, but it has fewer high-end and late-night options.

    • Best Area on Hvar Island Without a Car: Hvar Town
      Hvar Town is the best base without a car. Passenger catamarans arrive directly at the harbor, the main sights and restaurants are reached on foot, water taxis serve the Pakleni Islands, and most boat trips and organized excursions depart from the waterfront. The main bus station is behind St Stephen’s Cathedral, with services to Stari Grad, Jelsa, Vrboska, and the Stari Grad ferry terminal.

      The limitation is frequency. Island buses run only several times per day, so visiting multiple beaches, wineries, and villages in one day is difficult without a rental car or organized tour. Taxis are available but can be expensive and harder to find at peak times.

      Choose Hvar Town if you want to arrive by passenger ferry and avoid driving throughout your stay. Stari Grad is the better base for travelers bringing a car because the Split car ferry arrives there and road access and parking are easier than in central Hvar Town.

    A bus driver points to a crowd of people loading a bus.

    Cazmatrans buses connect Hvar Town with Stari Grad, Jelsa, Vrboska, and the Stari Grad ferry port.

    • Best Area on Hvar Island for Families: Stari Grad
      Stari Grad is the best family base on Hvar Island. The harbor and much of the historic center are relatively flat, the pedestrian core has little traffic, and evenings are much quieter than in Hvar Town. Restaurants, cafés, small shops, and the waterfront are close together, making it easier to manage meals and short outings with younger children.

      The strongest family resorts sit west of the center, generally about 20 to 30 minutes away on foot. Valamar Amicor Resort is the best choice for younger children, with pools, a waterpark, playgrounds, sports facilities, and organized activities. PLACES Hvar by Valamar has a more relaxed, adult-oriented atmosphere but also offers family-friendly villas, pools, and beach access.

      The main drawback is transport. The Stari Grad ferry port is outside town, and buses around the island are limited, so a taxi, hotel transfer, or rental car is useful for luggage and beach trips. Families who want to stay within walking distance of Hvar Town’s restaurants and boat tours may prefer Amfora, but Stari Grad is calmer, flatter, and better suited to a longer family stay.

    • Best Area on Hvar Island for Couples: Jelsa
      Jelsa is the best choice for couples who want a relaxed harbor town without the crowds, nightlife, and higher prices of Hvar Town. Restaurants and cafés line the waterfront, swimming spots are close to the center, and most accommodations are within a short walk of the harbor.

      A mostly level coastal route connects Jelsa with Vrboska in about one hour on foot, with quiet coves and swimming spots along the way. Renting bicycles makes it easier to visit both towns and explore nearby beaches, vineyards, and villages.

      The main drawback is limited transport and a smaller choice of high-end hotels and restaurants. Choose Jelsa for quiet evenings, waterfront dining, and a slower pace. Hvar Town is better for luxury hotels, nightlife, and boat trips, while Stari Grad offers more history and a wider range of accommodation.

    Small boats sit tied to a stone pier.

    The gorgeous harbor in Jelsa.

Boats sit in a blue harbor with a small town on a hill.

The view of the harbor outside of Hvar Old Town from Adriana Hotel.

The 4 Best Areas on Hvar Island for Tourists

1. Hvar Old Town

Tourists stand in a sun-bleached square.

St Stephen’s Square with its namesake Cathedral in the distance.

Hvar Old Town is the best place to stay for a first visit, a short trip, nightlife, restaurants, and ferry convenience. Passenger catamarans arrive directly at the harbor, and St Stephen’s Square, the waterfront, Fortica Fortress, the Arsenal, boat tours, water taxis, shops, and most of the island’s nightlife are close at hand.

The harbor itself and St Stephen’s Square are relatively level. The lanes behind them become steep quickly, with uneven stone surfaces and many steps. Before booking an apartment or guesthouse, ask whether a taxi can reach the entrance and how many stairs lie between the waterfront and the property. This matters far more than the straight-line distance shown on a map.

Hotels beside the harbor have the easiest luggage access and the strongest views, but they may also hear ferries, restaurant activity, music, and late-night pedestrians. Properties higher in the Old Town can be quieter and more atmospheric, but reaching them with luggage is harder.

The Old Town is especially good for couples and travelers staying only two or three nights. Families who want a pool, easy stroller access, or more room should stay outside the center or in Stari Grad.

Best for: First visits, short stays, couples, nightlife, restaurants, sightseeing, boat trips, and travelers without a car.

Main drawbacks: High prices, summer crowds, nighttime noise, small rooms, difficult luggage access, and steep steps.

Do not stay here if: You need parking beside your hotel, want a quiet resort holiday, have significant mobility limitations, or expect a sandy beach outside your door.

View from our room at hotel in Hvar.

The view of the harbro from the Palace Elisabeth.

2. Outside of Hvar Old Town

Lounge chairs on the beach.

Chairs for rent at Bonj Beach.

The waterfront outside Hvar Old Town is best for beaches, pools, views, and quieter evenings while remaining within walking distance of the center. The strongest hotel area follows the coast west from the harbor toward Bonj, Amfora, Hula Hula, and Podstine. A second, smaller cluster lies southeast of the ferry landing near the Franciscan Monastery and Beach Bay Hvar Hotel.

The coastal promenade west of town is scenic and mostly level. Adriana is at the edge of the historic harbor, Amfora is roughly 10 to 15 minutes from the center, and Moeesy is around 15 minutes away. Podstine is farther west and better for seclusion than frequent walks into town.

Some hotels are built into slopes above the waterfront, so a level promenade does not guarantee step-free access to the room. Guests with limited mobility should verify elevators, ramps, and the route from reception to the beach.

West of town is quieter than the harbor, but hotels near popular beach bars can still hear daytime music and sunset crowds. The southeast side is closer to the ferry landing and Franciscan Monastery but has fewer restaurants and resort facilities.

Best for: Couples, families, pools, sea access, resort facilities, and travelers who want to walk into Hvar Town without sleeping amid its busiest nightlife.

Main drawbacks: Higher resort prices, pebble and rock beaches, fewer inexpensive restaurants, and walks of up to 25 minutes from the more distant hotels.

Choose Hvar Old Town instead if: Your priority is nightlife, ferry convenience, and having the largest restaurant selection immediately outside the hotel.

Tan cushioned lounge chairs sit by the water.

Hula Hula Beach.

Hotels outside the Old Town provide facilities that are difficult to fit into Hvar’s historic center. Depending on the property, these can include large pools, gardens, spas, tennis courts, children’s areas, gyms, beach clubs, and direct swimming access. Room categories vary considerably, and the cheapest rooms may face inland, lack a balcony, or sit in a less convenient part of a large resort.

A multi-story building sits by a small harbor with several anchored boats.

The Adriana Hotel sits on the harbor and has beautiful views.

Lounge chairs sit around a small pool.

Moeesy Blue & Green Oasis has a small pool with great views.

A hotel next to a pebble beach.

Beach Bay is our favorite cheap/midrange hotel and sits beside a quiet pebbly cove, about a 10-minute walk from Hvar’s harbor and Old Town.

3. Stari Grad

Beige stone buildings surround a small marina.

Stari Grad marina.

Stari Grad is the best place to stay for families, drivers, longer visits, and travelers seeking a quieter alternative to Hvar Town. Its long harbor is lined with cafés, restaurants, small boats, and stone houses, while the compact historic center remains pleasant even during the busiest part of summer.

The central waterfront and most of the Old Town are considerably flatter than Hvar Town. This makes Stari Grad easier with a stroller, rolling luggage, or limited mobility, although individual lanes and accommodations may still have steps.

A couple wanders a cream-colored stone walkway with buildings the same color and stone with green shutters.

Old town in Stari Grad.

A navy-blue sign on a wrought iron gate states it's a UNESCO-Heritage Site.

Archaeological Site FAROS (UNESCO-listed ruins).

Stari Grad has important historic sights of its own, including Tvrdalj Castle, churches, monasteries, and access to the UNESCO-listed Stari Grad Plain. It lacks Hvar Town’s nightlife and extensive shopping, but it has enough restaurants and bars for a relaxed several-night stay.

The family-oriented Valamar resorts occupy the wooded shoreline west of town. They are approximately 20 to 30 minutes from the center on foot, depending on the property and route. Maslina Resort is more secluded and better reached by hotel transfer, taxi, bicycle, or car.

A large ferry produces light blue and white waves as it moves away from shore.

A ferry departs from Stari Grad.

The Split to Stari Grad ferry carries both vehicles and foot passengers and takes approximately two hours. The terminal is outside the historic center, so do not book accommodation assuming you can walk off the ferry directly into town. The route is about 2 kilometers and is inconvenient with luggage, heat, or young children. Use a connecting bus, taxi, or hotel transfer.

Buses connect Stari Grad with Hvar Town, Jelsa, Vrboska, and the ferry terminal, but they are not frequent enough to provide complete flexibility. A car is useful for beaches, wineries, inland villages, and the island’s eastern side.

Best for: Families, drivers, longer stays, quiet evenings, historic atmosphere, and easier walking.

Main drawbacks: Less nightlife, fewer luxury boutiques in the center, infrequent buses, and a ferry terminal outside town.

Choose Hvar Town instead if: You want nightlife, frequent boat trips, passenger ferries at your doorstep, and the island’s largest restaurant selection.

A large blue pool sits next to a restaurant.

The PLACES pool has lounge chairs and a restaurant and is our favorite 4-Star Hotel & Best Hotel at the Beach.

Cushioned lounge chairs line a blue pool at the end of a blue waterslide.

Families will enjoy the pool and water slide at Valamar Amicor.

4. Jelsa and Vrboska

People stand in line for gelato.

Jelsa main square.

Jelsa and Vrboska are best for couples, cyclists, repeat visitors, and travelers seeking a small-town base away from Hvar’s nightlife. Both sit on the island’s north coast, east of Stari Grad, and are surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, small beaches, and quiet villages.

Jelsa is the more practical base. It has a larger harbor, more restaurants and shops, several swimming areas, wineries nearby, and a broader range of accommodation. The compact center is easy to explore, although some hotels and villas sit on wooded slopes outside town.

Vrboska is smaller and more peaceful, with a narrow inlet, little bridges, old stone houses, and a fishing-village atmosphere. It is a better choice for quiet than convenience. Dining and shopping are limited, and a car or bicycle is especially useful.

Two people cycle on the path.

Cycling on the path.

A coastal path and quiet local roads connect Jelsa and Vrboska. The journey takes roughly one hour on foot and much less by bicycle, although heat and limited shade can make the walk uncomfortable around midday. The route passes swimming spots and attractive stretches of coast.

Buses connect both towns with Stari Grad and Hvar Town, but departures are too limited for spontaneous sightseeing. Travelers planning to explore beaches, wineries, Humac, Pitve, Zavala, or the island’s eastern side should rent a car.

Seasonal passenger services may connect Jelsa with Split or other islands, but schedules are not as consistent as the main routes into Hvar Town and Stari Grad. Confirm the exact operating dates before planning an arrival around a Jelsa ferry.

Best for: Couples, cycling, quiet evenings, longer stays, local beaches, and travelers with a car.

Main drawbacks: Limited nightlife, fewer upscale hotels, reduced off-season activity, and infrequent buses.

Choose Stari Grad instead if: You want a larger historic center, easier car-ferry access, more restaurants, and stronger family resorts.

A table sits on a tile patio overlooking the sea.

The views if the tennis courts and sea from Hotel Hvar in Jelsa.

An arch covers a path to a front door.

Rubin Jelsa (private rooms).

About Santorini Dave

Santorini Dave in Athens, Greece Santorini Dave was started in 2011 when I posted a short guide to visiting Santorini with kids. Now, my site publishes regularly updated guides to Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Mykonos, Crete, Athens, and all of Greece.

Questions? Email me at dave@santorinidave.com.