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Where to Stay in Ljubljana, Slovenia

By Santorini Dave

A stone castle sits on a hill and orange and green buildings line a street.

The beautiful buildings next to the Hotel Grand Union and Ljubljana Castle in the distance.

The Best Areas to Stay in Ljubljana

Enchanting, pulsating, friendly, historic, these words are often overused but are appropriate for Ljubljana (pronounced: loo-blee-AA-nuh). Residents of the Slovenian capital are proud of the gorgeous riverside setting, meandering traffic-free lanes, impressive array of museums and galleries, and genuine clean-and-green environment. Spend hours, if not days, sipping traditional coffee at sprawling plazas of pastel-painted history, enjoying the vast, city-edge Tivoli parklands; strolling around the Central Market and Ljubljanica River; and exploring the extraordinary castle that so utterly dominates the skyline. Moreover, the capital (and country) is a good value compared to European cities in the west and is far less crowded than towns along the nearby coast. And Europe’s most underrated capital is so compact and bike-friendly that you’ll never even need to use public transport or taxis.

Ljubljana Neighborhoods

Most people want to stay in the fascinating, historic, and romantic Old Town, which can be neatly divided into two areas on either side of the river. Staying around the castle allows visitors more time to explore and truly appreciate the magnificent hilltop structure that towers over the city. This area offers history and a vibe along the river and laneways where restaurants, bars, and boutiques abound.

Hotels west of the river also offer convenience to the castle and all the amenities and attractions around downtown, including the huge plazas, stimulating museums, and sprawling market. The streets are also home to the tourist office (with bike rental), many riverside cafés, and kiosks offering boat trips.

Sprawling from the western edge of the Old Town is the City Center, the official term for the modern hub packed with government facilities, upscale shops, large-scale museums, and top-end accommodations expected of a capital but not possible in the Old Town. Here, the hotels are generally larger than elsewhere, and transport is convenient, especially catching a taxi or local bus.

The streets near the bus and train stations are less visited but still charming and energetic. As well as convenience to transport across the region and to the airport, this area offers cheap accommodations, a cluster of museums, and the quirky arts center in Metelkova – all within a 20-minute stroll of the Old Town.

Along or just off the main road north of the City Center are decent accommodations in all ranges and are easily connected by bus to the Old Town and City Center. Families, especially, may appreciate proximity to the vast Tivoli Park, impressive ALEJA shopping mall, zoo, and more reasonably-priced hotels.

And the suburbs of Krakovo, Mirej, Prule, and Trnovo south of the City Center offer respite from the crowds, leafy backstreets, and a genuine country-town vibe not found elsewhere in Ljubljana.

A hotel entrance with lots of windows and dark brown and gold paint.

The Hotel Heritage is near the river and Cobblers’ Bridge.

The Best Places to Stay in Ljubljana

Best Areas in Ljubljana for…

  • Best Areas in Ljubljana for First-Time Visitors: City Center and South of the City Center
    The temptation is to stay in the Old Town – either around the castle or west of the river – but both areas can be crowded and the cobblestoned streets, while charming, do meander confusingly and are often poorly signposted (or not at all). Just a short walk from the Old Town, the City Center offers all the facilities required by those visiting for the first time, e.g., a fine range of accommodations (including those moderately priced); plenty of shops; transport by taxi and local bus; and a few places to hang out after dark.

    Four distinct areas are South of the City Center and still within a short walk (or bike ride) of the Old Town: Krakovo, Mirje, Prule, and Trnovo. More like country towns than city suburbs, all offer a genuine slice of Slovenian life with prices set for locals rather than tourists, including many privately-run rooms and family-run apartments.

  • Best Area in Ljubljana for Sightseeing: Old Town (West of the River)
    This area is squeezed between the more modern City Center and the Old Town, which partly circles the castle. So, it’s ideal for visiting all the main attractions in downtown – in particular, the majestic Ljubljana Castle, which is especially photogenic west of the river (e.g., at Congress Square).

    A man strolls past plants and flowers through and outdoor market.

    On our trip to the Central Market, we saw flowers, plants, produce, hats, and souvenirs.

    Other must-sees in this area include the Central Market, a popular local meeting place with covered and open-air stalls; the largest of many plazas, Prešeren Square, flanked by the pastel-pink and much-photographed Franciscan Church; and the overlooked City Museum of Ljubljana.

    A red boat cruising the river past old cream-colored buildings.

    Here’s one of the boats that cruised the river.

    A stone bridge crosses a green river to tall old pastel-colored buildings.

    We crossed Triple Bridge to the west side. This image was taken at Prešeren Square looking back over the bridge to the City Center.

    Moreover, it’s easy to organize boat trips along the river, and the tourist office is just across Triple Bridge from Prešeren Square.

  • Best Area in Ljubljana for History & Vibe: Old Town (Around the Castle)
    The city’s history is no more evident than at, and around, Ljubljana Castle, a medieval fortress and former prison perched on a steep hill that dominates the city skyline. Built about 900 years ago, it is undoubtedly worth visiting many times, and with informative explanations, interactive displays, guided tours, and summer festivals, it’s so much fun for families. Easily reached on foot, by car, or in a funicular, entry is free, but there is often an extra charge for special exhibits.

    A castle with few windows and stone walls sits on a green lawn.

    Our up-close view of the almost 900-year-old Ljubljana Castle.

    Most of the city vibe is based along the river, which is lined with buildings the color of strawberries, mustard, and avocado, and packed with bistros and bars.

    hundreds of paddle locks line a railing over a river.

    We didn’t leave a lock on Butchers’ Bridge because the weight of the locks can get too heavy, even though the bridge was reinforced. But many couples do it to symbolize locking their love together and throwing the key away into the river.

    Quaint (and pedestrian-friendly) bridges cross the river at many places, including the Triple Bridge (yes, there are three), which leads to Prešeren Square, and Butchers’ Bridge, strung with chains of padlocks placed by local lovers. Adding even further to the infectious vibe is the vast Central Market.

  • Best Area in Ljubljana for Nightlife: Old Town (West of the River)
    Ljubljana is a low-key capital of such an under-visited country that there isn’t much nightlife to get excited about. Most locals and visitors are content with a long, leisurely evening meal at a café overlooking the river (see Restaurants later).

    A small table sits on top of a skyscraper and offers views of the orange town roofs and a castle.

    We enjoyed the food and fantastic view of the Ljubljana city center and the castle at Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) & rooftop café

    Otherwise, along the edge of this area is the Skyscraper (Nebotičnik) building, which is grandly-named but rather modest, but it does offer a marvelous rooftop café and the city’s finest views. For something more lively, head to Orto Bar for cocktails and LOUD rock music; or Klub K4 for dance, techno, and house music enjoyed by those who can tell the difference. If lacking time and knowledge, perhaps join tours offered by Wine Tasting Ljubljana www.winetastingljubljana.com or Pub Crawl Ljubljana.

  • Best Areas in Ljubljana for Shopping: Old Town (Around the Castle) and Old Town (West of the River)
    Arguably the finest shopping in the city is along Stari Trg, the name given to the main street that meanders around the western edge of the dramatic hilltop castle. Inviting boutiques selling more interesting items than “I Love Slovenia” T-shirts, including jewelry, clothing, and glassware, line the narrow, stone-laden, and pedestrian-only lanes. Stari Trg starts at the fabulous Central Market, which opens from about 7am daily. Although mostly fruit and vegetables, some undercover stalls sell worthwhile souvenirs.

    At Prešeren Square is the posh Emporium department store. Pedestrian walkways like Čopova Street lead from Prešeren Square to Slovenska Street, on the edge of the City Center and lined with multi-level department stores like MANGO, Zara, and Nama.

  • Best Area in Ljubljana for Restaurants: Old Town (West of the River)
    There are no more enticing places for a meal and/or drink than the riverside cafés alongside the Ljubljanica River. It curls through the Old Town and hugs the hill perched with the castle. As expected, prices may be higher than in the backstreets nearby, but the views and ambience are outstanding. Not all riverbanks are bustling with bars and restaurants, however, so head to these areas where the choice is impressive and prices competitive: (1) the western and northern (non-castle) side of the river between Triple Bridge and Dragon Bridge; and (2) the eastern (castle) side of the river between Triple Bridge and Cobblers’ Bridge. For something truly special, there are boat cruises with dinner included; cafés at picturesque Francoske Square (delightfully devoid of tourists); stylish eateries inside Ljubljana Castle; and the rooftop Nebotičnik Café (see earlier), which provides stunning views of snow-capped mountains and the hilltop castle. Foodies may want to join the Food Tour Ljubljana.
  • Best Area in Ljubljana without a Car: Anywhere!
    You certainly do not need a car while visiting the Slovenian capital; in fact, you may not even need to use public transport or catch a taxi (except to/from the airport). Ljubljana is just so easy to get around with just two feet – and local authorities offer terrific alternatives to petrol-guzzling vehicles: e.g., free bike rental; free Kavalir electric minibuses; and the eco-friendly hop-on/hop-off Urban shuttle train.

    A small green minibus sits by the curb.

    The free free Kavalir electric minibus.

  • Best Area in Ljubljana for Transport: Near the Bus & Train Stations
    Within a 20-minute walk of all accommodations in the Old Town and City Center is the very convenient, and surprisingly low-key, train station and bus terminal just outside. From there, trains and bus companies like Flixbus and Arriva travel all over the country and continent. Also from the bus terminal, bus #28 heads to the airport (and back) every 30-60 minutes, and other buses head to nearby tourist attractions like Lake Bled. There doesn’t seem to be much of a bus schedule at the stations, and the train timetable is hard to follow, so seek advice from the information counters (both closed Sundays). And just across the road are several bicycles and e-scooters for rent.
  • Best Area in Ljubljana for Families: North of the City Center
    With a population of fewer than 300,000, the Slovenian capital is far more manageable than most European cities. Nonetheless, the crowds and noise can be overwhelming, especially during the peak July-August season, and the Old Town streets are narrow and stony (but not too hilly). Within a few bus stops of the Old Town and City Center – or about 20 minutes by rented bicycle along dedicated paths – are several hotels in the inner-northern suburbs ideal for families. Those travelling with children can enjoy more affordable hotel rates, free parking, spacious rooms, and lush gardens, which are impossible in the Old Town and City Center. Added attractions are proximity to ZOO Ljubljana, part of the expansive Tivoli Park which offers playgrounds, mini-golf, shady lawns, cycling paths, and hiking trails around Rožnik Hill.
  • Best Area in Ljubljana for Couples: Old Town (Around the Castle)
    Few areas are more romantic in this part of Europe than around Ljubljana Castle. Fancy restaurants and cozy bars, especially romantic along the river, pack the winding, narrow, and stony streets. There is also an outstanding collection of boutique hotels, including April1550, Bloom, and Allegro. So, explore the city and inner suburbs by renting a bicycle or hopping on the free Kavalir minibus or Urban shuttle-train. (See earlier for details.) Stroll around the Central Market, which evolves throughout the day and should be visited a few times.

    People look out a glass funicular to a city with orange tile roofs.

    We enjoyed the gorgeous view and the ride on the funicular to Ljubljana Castle.

    Take the cute little funicular to explore the majestic Ljubljana Castle, where views from the surrounding gardens are fantastic and the upscale eateries are inviting (only open in warmer months). And, maybe, display your feelings like so many have done: add a padlock to the edge of Butchers’ Bridge and throw the key into the river.

  • Best Area in Ljubljana on a Budget: North of the City Center
    Not surprisingly, the Old Town is expensive and overpriced (even more so in July and August), while the City Center remains reasonably pricey as it caters to business folk and tourists alarmed by rates in the Old Town. But don’t despair: along or just off the main road heading northwest from the edge of the City Center are numerous wallet-friendly places to stay. Those facing the road can be noisy, but accommodations in the backstreets are far quieter, and all are easily connected to the Old Town and City Center by bus and rented bike along dedicated paths. Yes, the architecture is a little communist-era drab, but think about the money you save on accommodations and food.
A stone carved bridge is reflected in the water.

The sunset glowed as we crossed Dragon Bridge over the Ljubljanica River.

The Best Areas in Ljubljana for Tourists Ordered from the City Center out

Old Town Near the Castle

People sit at tables at a café on stony streets surrounded by tall historic buildings.

We enjoyed stopping and sitting at cafés as we wandered the streets.

Most visitors want to stay near the castle, which is undoubtedly the city’s most scenic, historic, and romantic area. Inviting bars, restaurants, and boutiques line the pedestrian streets. Be prepared to walk on narrow, stony streets and tote your luggage. Taxis and parking can be challenging in Old Town. With the castle, surrounding gardens, and Central Market so spread out, there is precious little space for hotels, and some have poor signage (if at all).

A couple rides bikes on stony roads by an old church.

Biking is a popular way to get around. We saw bikers riding past St Nicholas Church on Ciril-Metodov trg (square) around the castle.

The two luxury hotels offer rare river views, while the exceptional boutique hotels are along the cobblestoned backstreets. There are some decent options for families and a vast range of privately-run rooms/apartments of varying quality.

Antique mint green tufted chairs and wood pedestal tables sit in a hotel lobby.

We loved the charming lobby at the Allegro Hotel.

Tables with plush purple, coral, and tan chairs sit at tables in a restaurant.

The Restaurant (with the same name) at our favorite new hotel, The Hotel Ljubljana.

Old Town West of the River

People stand in a huddle in the middle of a town square.

Prešeren Square is the first stop west over Triple Bridge and the river.

Conveniently squeezed between the river and the City Center (see below), most of this area is accessible by car and taxi, yet within walking distance of the bus and train stations. The streets are wide, leafy, and packed with old, pastel-colored buildings, most occupied by bars and bistros at ground level.

The much-photographed Prešeren Square dominates the northern part, from where cobblestoned streets lead to the edge of the City Center. The less-visited southern section is home to the City Museum of Ljubljana, University of Ljubljana, and Congress Square, which is more appealing in some ways than overcrowded Prešeren Square and offers stunning views of the hilltop castle. The prime base for sightseeing, nightlife, and restaurants is west of the river. It is also home to the city’s finest luxury hotels and three of the most adorable boutique options anywhere in the country.

A hotel stands tall with a grand sign that reads, "Hotel Union."

The Hotel Grand Union is our favorite 5-Star Hotel.

A small white hotel sits a few stories high.

Our Favorite hotel for couples is Zlata Ladjica Boutique Hotel because of its charm and its location in a quiet part of town, facing the river.

City Center

A tall cream-colored building has country flags blowing in the wind.

National Gallery of Slovenia has art from the late medieval period.

Slovenska street, which is wide, straight, and (mostly) bus-only, marks the sudden boundary between the Old Town and modern grid across what is unimaginatively called the City Center. The streets are packed with office blocks; government buildings like the National University; extra-large museums and galleries, such as the National Museum of Slovenia; and iconic department stores like MANGO and Nama.

Other worthwhile attractions include the Museum of Modern Art; National Gallery of Slovenia; and the modest Skyscraper building (see earlier) topped by a café providing the city’s premier views.

A tall castle sits atop a lush green hill and gardens.

We loved getting lost following the gardens and paths through Tivoli Park and ended up at Tivoli Castle.

Adding even further to the appeal is easy access to Tivoli Park (see earlier) and roads allowing direct access to hotel entrances. Overall, it is a better value than hotels in the Old Town, and some places in the moderate range are definitely worthwhile.

Near the Bus & Train Stations

A long pale yellow building serves as a train station.

The train and bus station.

Alongside each other in a convenient part of the northern inner-city are the surprisingly low-key train station and seemingly makeshift bus terminal. Both offer regular services across the country and continent; there are also direct buses to the airport and tourist hotspots like Lake Bled.

A graffitied building with bars on the windows looks closed but it's a cultural center.

AKC Metelkova Mesto arts and cultural center offers more than art. It also has underground music, a theater, and nightlife.

This area is also home to the AKC Metelkova Mesto arts and cultural center, which is more eccentric than historic, and a cluster of museums – including the Slovene Ethnographic Museum – around the cute and shady Tabor Park. All accommodations listed below are within a 20-minute walk of the Old Town and City Center via flat, paved roads (better for hauling heavy luggage). Bars and bistros scattered around the bus/train stations and along the northern edge of the Old Town nearby are less crowded and of far better value than the more touristy areas. There are decent hotels in all ranges and some cheapies worth recommending.

A large metal sign reads, "Hotel" outside the entrance of the Grand Plaza Hotel.

The Grand Plaza Hotel.

A multi-level hotel with beige-colored stone.

Our favorite hotel for families is the City Hotel for its convenience, excellent service, and facilities.

A hostel painted red and purple with pastel rainbow colored windows.

The colorful Hostel Celica is a 7-minute walk to the train station.

North of the City Center

A pink painted three-story building.

The Museum of Contemporary History of Slovenia.

Heading north – or, more accurately, northwest – from the edge of the City Center, the major road, Celovška, dissects the suburb of Šiška. Some accommodations among the backstreets are in drab communist-era buildings, and those along the main road can be noisy, but the area is still worthwhile. (1) Accommodations are more affordable and spacious than in the Old Town, and parking is available and (usually) free. (2) The scenic hills of Tivoli Park tower over the area. (3) This is the real Ljubljana, where locals, not tourists, pack out the bars and restaurnts which are priced accordingly. (4) The massive ALEJA shopping mall is in the northern section.

A diamond patterned colored-glass building.

We enjoyed walking around the ALEJA Shopping Center.

A few places to stay are within walking distance of the City Center and Old Town, while most are just a short ride by bus, and all are easily accessible by rented bicycle along dedicated lanes. Families would especially appreciate the functional apartments and proximity to ZOO Ljubljana and the vast Tivoli Park (see earlier).

A large outdoor sign reads, "One66."

One66 is our favorite 4-Star Hotel.

South of the City Center

A boat rides slowly along the river.

More boats trips along the river.

Zoisova/Karlovška road marks the end of the pedestrian-friendly laneways that meander throughout the Old Town, but the charm and history continue across four adjoining areas to the south. Each offers good-value accommodations and a genuine country-town vibe, distant from the large crowds and high prices. A few minutes’ walk south of the Old Town and City Center, Krakovo is a former fishing village based around a canal branching from the river.

Old stone walls create an arched passage to a road.

Roman wall ruins.

Just to the west, and still very convenient, is Mirje, home to the remains of a Roman wall that once surrounded the original city. Just across the river from Krakovo is Prule, where posh homes pack the leafy streets; and further south and more isolated, Trnovo is a more modern and congested area.

Attractions south of the City Center include St. John the Baptist Church and the adjacent Plečnik House, dedicated to the revered architect who transformed the city early last century. All four areas are terrific for families and anyone seeking a more genuine and immersive cultural experience. Mostly small family-run apartments are accessible by rented bicycles via dedicated lanes or by strolling along riverside paths.

Top Travel Tips for Ljubljana

  • Although Ljubljana doesn’t attract the summer masses like London, Paris, or Dubrovnik, crowd numbers – and prices – surge in July and August, avoid these months or book way ahead. The best time to travel is mid-April to late May and mid-September to the end of October.
  • The only trip by public transport you’re likely to take is bus #28 between the main bus station and the airport (every 30-60 minutes). Tickets for this (and any other local bus) can be bought on board with a Visa/MasterCard.
  • While walking is the best way to explore, there are benefits to renting a bicycle. These are offered all over downtown and the inner-city suburbs by BicikeLJ (free for the first hour); and Nomago (more likely in the suburbs).
  • Taxis should be metered, but some are not, so arrange one through your hotel. Avoid “taxis” without proper company markings that hang around the train and bus stations. If you must use these, agree on a price before getting in. No Uber or similar app-based ride-share companies operate in Slovenia.
  • Many private businesses, including cafés and bars, close on Sundays, and most museums close one day a week – often Mondays. (Ljubljana Castle is open every day.) Many attractions – and some tourist businesses – also have different operating times in summer and winter. Check ahead to avoid disappointment.
  • Despite online agencies claiming that your booking includes “all taxes and fees,” you will still have to pay a tourist tax per person per night of about €3. The hotel collects this on behalf of the government to fund the excellent tourist services throughout the city.

Our Favorite Hotels in Ljubljana

5-Star Hotel: Union
Delightfully historic and charming, the Old Town setting alongside the main square is superb, and the facilities are outstanding.

4-Star Hotel: One66
A little isolated, but worth the effort: stylish design, funky furniture, and opposite the inner-city’s premier modern-style shopping center.

Boutique Hotel: AS Boutique
Sparkling new, with an unbeatable yet tranquil position between the castle and the Old Town’s finest shopping area.

New Hotel: The Hotel Ljubljana
Faultless location, graceful design, and rare river views; also backs onto the Old Town’s main shopping and dining strip.

Cheap Hotel: Hotel Park
So quiet, functional, and convenient to the Old Town and bus/train stations. Excellent service and breakfast (usually) included.

For Families: City Hotel
Prominent and convenient, it’s as delightfully understated as the name, but the facilities and service are among the city’s finest.

For Couples: Zlata Ladjica
One of the few directly facing the river, it’s packed with elegance, charm, and history, and is in a tranquil part of the Old Town.

Hotel Pool: uHOTEL

Views: InterContinental

About Santorini Dave

Santorini Dave Santorini Dave was started in 2011 when I posted a short guide to visiting Santorini with kids. Now, my small team and I provide guides to Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Mykonos, Crete, Athens, and all of Greece - as well as best places to stay in some of my favorite cities - like London, Paris, Barcelona, Rome, Venice, and Florence.

Questions? Email me at dave@santorinidave.com.