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Where to Stay in Zagreb, Croatia

By Santorini Dave

A large fountain bubbles in front of a yellow historic building.

We walked in Lower Town by King Tomislav Square Fountain in front of the Art Pavillion followed by three blocks of beautiful parks.

The Best Areas to Stay in Zagreb

Many skip the Croatian capital on the way to the sun and sea along the Adriatic Coast, but that would be a mistake. There are many reasons to visit and stay a while: intriguing museums, pulsating nightlife, historic old town, and stunning architecture. And every corner seems to feature a park on one side across from at least three crowded cafés.

But what sets Zagreb apart from similar cities is the infectious vibe emanating from the youthful population, which relishes the many outdoor activities, energetic music scene, and eye-catching festivals. The city is of better value than most across Europe, and locals are welcoming – and the majority speaks English with a charming accent and genuine smile. And, despite first impressions, the capital is reasonably compact; in fact, every recommended area to stay in is within a 30-minute walk of each other, except Novi Zagreb, which is just a few bus stops away.

Zagreb Neighborhoods

Visitors generally stay in or around the city center, where most attractions, amenities, and accommodations are located. This fascinating and historic area is spread out but can be subdivided into Upper Town and Lower Town (although where the boundaries start and finish is open for debate).

With so much history and charm, Upper Town (Gornji Grad) is the highlight of Zagreb. Along its narrow, winding, and stony streets are some of the country’s finest places to shop, eat, drink, and stay, although some parts are very steep and access by car is problematic.

Adjoining Upper Town at the massive Ban Jelačic square, Lower Town (Donji Grad) sprawls across numerous crowded city blocks. Among the drab apartment buildings, however, are some pretty parks and impressive architecture. Hotels here are convenient to the Upper Town and the bus and train stations.

Clustered around the train station are excellent high-end hotels and cute boutique places. In addition to being convenient to train services across the country and continent, several attractive parks are ideal for doing little else but drinking coffee and watching people.

Also within walking distance of Lower Town and Upper Town are several recommended budget hotels around the bus station, which has frequent services to the airport.

South of the train station and across the neglected river, Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”) is nicer than it sounds. Hotels offer more space and cheaper rates than the Upper/Lower Town areas, while visitors can also enjoy vast parks and the Arena shopping mall – all within a 20-minute bus trip of Lower Town.

A tall historic building has an outdoor cafe with tables under umbrellas.

Esplanade, around the train station, is our favorite 5-star hotel and also a great choice for families. The beautiful art deco hotel opened in 1925 for Orient Express passengers and is now a retreat for movie stars, musicians, and politicians.

The Best Places to Stay in Zagreb

  • Best Luxury Hotels in Zagreb
    Esplanade • Hotel Astoria • Canopy • DoubleTree • Sheraton • The Westin
  • Best Boutique Hotels in Zagreb
    Le Premier • art’otel • Hotel Capital • Boutique Hotel HOH • Hotel Jägerhorn • Hotel Sundial
  • Best New Hotels in Zagreb
    Met • Boutique Hotel HOH • art’otel • Avenue 21 • Canopy
  • Best Cheap/Midrange Hotels in Zagreb
    Hotel Park 45 • Grand Bells Bed and Breakfast • Hotel Central • Garden Hotel
  • Best Hotels for Families in Zagreb
    art’otel • Esplanade • Boutique Hotel HOH • Le Premier • Hotel Jägerhorn
  • Best Hotels for Couples in Zagreb
    Hotel Academia • Hotel Astoria • Hotel Park 45 • Hotel Dubrovnik • Hotel Aristos

    • Best Areas in Zagreb for…

    • Best Area in Zagreb for First-Time Visitors: Lower Town
      Zagreb is the capital of Croatia, but the city is not nearly as focused on tourism as most European capitals. The street names and layout are confusing, so perhaps stay in Lower Town, where hotels are within a 15-minute walk of the bus station, train terminal, and Upper Town, the city’s main attraction. Lower Town is also home to fascinating museums, numerous shops and cafés, and several lovely parks for coffee-sipping and people-watching.
    • Best Area in Zagreb for Sightseeing: Lower Town
      Among the crowded streets in the Lower Town are several attractions, including handsome parks lined with colorful cafés, as well as the Ethnographic and Archaeological museums. (The massive Mimara Museum and Art Pavilion were closed in 2024 for restorations after the earthquake in 2020.) There are also some oddities nearby like the Museum of Hangovers (yes, really!) and the Museum of Selfie & Memories. (ditto!).

      But the appeal of staying in the Lower Town is simply proximity to the city’s main attraction: the Upper Town, which starts immediately north of the main square, Ban Jelačic. This is also the location of the tourist office and agencies offering sightseeing tours of the city and beyond.

    • Best Area in Zagreb for History & Vibe: Upper Town
      Upper Town was first settled in the 13th century but rebuilt after the 1880 earthquake, so it’s not as historic as the one in Dubrovnik or as attractive as the Old Town in Ljubljana (capital of Slovenia). Nonetheless, Upper Town is appealing, especially where the streets turn into alleyways in the western section.

      People stand looking out a blue funicular at the tericotta roofs of Zagreb.

      We rode the blue funicular in upper town.

      In this higher part (which is steep enough for special minibusses and a funicular), the History Museum (closed for renovations) and the City Museum chronicle Zagreb’s history of wars, rebellions, earthquakes, and Soviet-era rule. Along the main square, Ban Jelačic, where Upper Town meets Lower Town, is the magnificent Zagreb Cathedral (also under extensive restoration). For an infectious inner-city vibe, look no further than the vast main square, home to the colorful Dolac Market; an abundance of bars and bistros along Radićeva and Tkalćićeva streets; and outdoor events in summer. Indispensable is the Step by Step walking map of Upper Town available from the tourist office at the main square.

    • Best Area in Zagreb for Nightlife: Upper Town
      There is certainly no shortage of things to do after dark, especially given the number of young residents. The prime source of information is the excellent, free booklet Zagreb in your Pocket (available in some hotel foyers but not the tourist offices). After the sun has set, activities include loud nightclubs with international DJs, Irish pubs featuring live music, and TV sports in and around the main square, Ban Jelačic, which more or less separates Upper Town from Lower Town.

      A tall yellow building with ornate windows, pillars, and a green roof.

      The Croatian National Theatre offers ballet, theater, and opera performances.

      More sedate activities are ballet and opera at the Croatian National Theatre, as well as many film, music, and arts festivals, especially in the warmer months. Otherwise, most visitors are more than happy enjoying a leisurely dinner washed down with Croatian wine at one of the many cafés along Radićeva and Tkalćićeva streets (see Restaurants later).

    • Best Areas in Zagreb for Shopping: Lower Town and Upper Town
      The main shopping areas are around the main square, Ban Jelačic, and along Jurišićeva/Ilica street, which extends west of the square and acts as the unofficial border between Upper Town and Lower Town. Around these areas are numerous department stores, some perhaps unfamiliar to visitors, like Müller, Harmica, and Nama. Adding to the shopping experience are all the cute and, sometimes, quirky boutiques among the many bars and bistros on Radićeva and Tkalćićeva streets, which both head north from the main square.

      A woman waits under a red umbrella for her flowers from a vender at an outdoor market.

      We saw fresh vegetables, fruits, baked goods, and flowers at the large outdoor Dolac Market.

      And don’t forget to take the time to explore the daily Dolac Market, which sprawls north of the square. The free Insight Design Guide (available in hotel foyers) is a useful handbook to “authentic and unique shops in Zagreb.” Note: almost all major stores and supermarkets (usually not boutiques) close on Sundays.

    • Best Area in Zagreb for Restaurants: Upper Town
      Tables at most restaurants, except those in top-end hotels, are huddled along footpaths and close to traffic. To avoid this, try dining along one of the narrow, stony, and vehicle-free streets and laneways in Upper Town (but anywhere in the older and more elevated section will involve steep steps).

      Outdoor tables sit coved in orange and white linens on a sunny day.

      We enjoyed traditional Croatian cuisine at Tavern Didov San.

      For an atmospheric meal distant from traffic, wander along one of the flat streets stretching north of the main square, Ban Jelačic, which is connected every few seconds by trams. Along Radićeva and Tkalćićeva streets, the restaurants with wooden tables, colorful linen, and attentive service have prices far lower than in Dubrovnik and most Croatian islands. Connoisseurs of fine food may want to read the restaurant suggestions and reviews in the free and very informative Zagreb in your Pocket booklet.

    • Best Area in Zagreb Without a Car: Lower Town
      Do not bring a car into Zagreb because traffic is maniacal, the one-way road system is terrifying, and there is virtually nowhere to park – and parking inspectors are constantly on the prowl. Despite a population approaching one million, Zagreb is reasonably compact for tourists. Most sights are in or around Lower Town, while Upper Town, just a few blocks north, is ideal for strolling, shopping, eating, and soaking up all the history and ambiance. Most hotels in Lower Town are also within a 15-minute walk (or shorter tram ride) of the train station and bus terminal (with shuttle buses to the airport).
    • Best Area in Zagreb for Transport: Around the Bus Station
      In most large European cities, staying near a long-distance bus station or major train terminal is often convenient. This is not necessary in Zagreb because almost every hotel in Lower Town and Upper Town is within a 30-minute walk. The exceptions are hotels in the more elevated parts of Upper Town (so take a taxi) and Novi Zagreb, which is well connected by local bus. Staying near the bus station, however, is handy because this is where the frequent airport shuttle buses leave from, and it’s just a 10-minute walk from the train station.

      A blue tram rides the tracks over brick walkways.

      We rode the tram from upper town to lower town.

      The local transport system, which is dominated by trams, isn’t that user-friendly for tourists. Your best bet is to buy a ticket as required (valid for all trams/buses for up to 90 minutes) from a newspaper/tobacco kiosk, which seems to be on every street corner.

    • Best Area in Zagreb for Families: Around the Train Station
      Within a 5-minute walk of the train station are many accommodations from 5-star international chains along the main road to appealing family-run apartments in private homes among the quieter backstreets. Staying near the train station allows easy travel across the country and continent from the large and efficient train station, which is within a 10-minute walk of the bus station (with airport shuttle buses). Here, you’ll find plenty of cheap places to eat, while major attractions, even as far as Upper Town, are still within a 30-minute walk (or a few stops by tram). The youngsters may enjoy the Lenuci Horseshoe, a collection of attractive parks north of the train station with inviting cafés for adults.
    • Best Area in Zagreb for Couples: Upper Town
      Although not as attractive as the Old Town on Korčula Island or as historic as the ones in Dubrovnik and Split, Upper Town can feel romantic. The narrow, winding, and cobblestoned lanes are devoid of traffic and flanked by historic buildings, some offering privately-run accommodation, others converted into adorable boutique hotels. Spend the days exploring the churches, museums, and shops among the backstreets of the Upper Town and visiting nearby attractions on organized bus tours. Then, enjoy leisurely evening meals and locally crafted wine at one of the many quaint and quiet restaurants in Upper Town, where wandering musicians may even serenade customers on summer evenings.
    • Best Areas in Zagreb on a Budget: Around the Bus Station and Novi Zagreb
      Most hotels in the prime locations of Lower Town and Upper Town are expensive. However, this may not be so apparent after visiting high-priced destinations like Dubrovnik and Hvar Island. (Zagreb may be the place to splurge on a lovely boutique hotel.) Hotels (and privately-run rooms and apartments) near the bus station are excellent value for those counting their euros. Except for the June-August peak season, arriving without reservations and checking out a few hotels just across the road is possible. Otherwise, Novi Zagreb offers something different: cheap accommodation in a genuine inner-city suburb unaffected by tourism.
A massive dark green sculpture of a man on a horse with a sword sits in a square.

We wandered Ban Jelačic Square and saw the massive sculpture of Ban Josip Jelači with his sword facing south.

The Best Areas in Zagreb for Tourists Ordered from the City Center Out.

Upper Town

A parked blue bus sits in front of an orange brick building.

The charming bus Terminal on Kaptol street in upper town.

Upper Town (Gornji Grad) starts north of Jurišićeva/Ilica street, which runs through Zagreb’s main square, Ban Jelačic. To the south, Lower Town is cursed with traffic, while Upper Town is an intriguing maze of cobblestoned laneways with virtually no traffic but plenty to see and do. So it’s ideal for those on a romantic holiday. With historic buildings and an irresistible vibe throughout, Upper Town can be divided into three areas. (1) Around Ban Jelačic square, there are plenty of shops, department stores, nightclubs, and eateries, as well as the tourist office, fantastic Dolac Market, and Zagreb Cathedral (under reconstruction). (2) Spreading north of the square, the pleasingly flat streets of Radićeva and Tkalćićeva are jam-packed with fantastic boutiques, bistros, and bars (some with live music).

A man walks up steep steps in a park.

We walked up stairs to beautiful views of upper town.

(3) The elevated real Upper Town west of Radićeva has a few museums but is a little underwhelming. This third area is accessible by public minibus, very steep stairs, and a funicular (apparently, the world’s shortest). There are some gorgeous boutique hotels all over Upper Town and recommended places in the moderate range, but choose your accommodation wisely to avoid too many hilly streets and steep steps.

A view looking down on a city and puffy white clouds in blue sky.

Our gorgeous view from Boutique Hotel HOH. You can see why it’s our favorite hotel with views.

Lower Town

People sit at tables under large umbrellas to protect themselves from the bright sun while eating.

We enjoyed the outdoor dining in Lower Town.

We designate Lower Town (Donji Grad) as the area between the extended Hatza/Trenka/ Žerjavića street near the train station and Jurišićeva/Ilica street, the main shopping strip indicating the start of Upper Town. Much of Lower Town is unremarkable, but stunning neo-classical architecture peppers the streets, including the Ethnographic Museum and Croatian National Theatre, both near the train station. Heading north from the train station are three blocks of beautiful parks, one dominated by the Art Pavilion.

People walk through a tall tree-lined path in a city park.

Nikole Zrinskog Square is one of three parks north of the Art Pavillion.

Overall, the Lower Town is the best place to stay for sightseeing around the city and organizing tours elsewhere. It’s also the spot for shopping, especially at the main square, Ban Jelačic – which is why the Lower Town is ideal for those visiting Zagreb for the first time. All luxury hotels listed below (except the Dubrovnik) are boutique options–each exceptional. However, not many other hotels are worth recommending in the other categories.

A red plush sofa and chairs sit in a lobby.

The Le Premier Boutique Hotel lobby.

Around the Train Station

A fountain glistens in the sun.

The calming Esplanade fountain sits outside the hotel, which is our favorite 5-star hotel in Zagreb.

Clustered around the efficient railway station, with services across the country and continent, is an impressive selection of hotels. The most appealing are between the old-fashioned station building and the street called Hatza/Trenka/Žerjavića, which acts as the border with Lower Town. Hotels south of the station and train lines are too far to walk from Lower Town. Also within this area of hotels are the tidy Botanical Garden of the Faculty of Science and, in front (north) of the train station, Tomislav Square with its attractive gardens, imposing buildings, and crowded cafés for coffee-sipping and people-watching. There are several outstanding hotels – including some suitable for families – and many recommended private apartments, almost impossible to find without detailed instructions from the owners.

Red, blue, and yellow chairs sit in a hotel lobby.

The bright lobby and bar at Canopy by Hilton.

Around the Bus Station

Jungle gyms sit in a sunny park.

A playground in the area.

In the suburb of Kanal and southeast of the bus station is a decent choice of accommodations within a triangle of busy roads: Vukovara, Radnička, and DrŽića. Options include (1) two Hilton hotels in a leafy area of big banks, tech offices, and upscale restaurants; (2) appealing budget-priced hotels, many just across from the station and often available without reservations; and (3) quiet (and nicely signposted) privately-run rooms and apartments on and around Supilova street. All places listed below are within a short walk of the large and efficient bus station, which has frequent services all over the country and continent, and buses every 30 minutes to/from the airport. The bus station is just a 20-minute walk (quicker by tram) from Lower Town – another reason this area is ideal for families.

A tall building with lots of windows.

DoubleTree by Hilton.

A wall of book shelves hold knick-knacks and books behind a red booth in a restaurant.

We enjoyed the fun restaurant in Hotel Sliško.

Novi Zagreb

A person walks through a shopping mall.

Arena Centar shopping mall.

“New Zagreb” may not sound too exciting – and, yes, it is chock-full of communist-era buildings – but this vast and reasonably convenient area does provide a taste of genuine city life. This region includes the suburbs of Bundek, just across the river from the train station and dominated by a massive park; Buzin, on the southern outskirts of the city and close to the airport; Jaruščica, home to the enormous Arena Centar shopping mall and Arena Zagreb stadium (for sports and concerts); and Blato, further southwest from Arena. Other reasons to stay in Novi Zagreb are the proximity to the airport, lower-cost accommodations, free parking, the Museum of Contemporary Art, and the chance to meet some locals. Places directly south of the river are frequently connected to the train station by bus #268; to the Arena, use bus #234. Accommodations include high-rise hotels utilizing available space and catering to the airport and privately run places, many conveniently huddled around the Arena Mall.

A server walks by a lighted bar at a restaurant.

Nikola’s Bar and Restaurant at Mövenpick has a chocolate hour every afternoon serving delicious treats.

Hotel windows reflect the blue sky.

Hotel Aristos is our favorite hotel near the Airport.

Zagreb Travel Tips

  • Most streets stretching east-west across the city center change names constantly, which is very confusing. For example, within a 10-minute walk in Lower Town, one street changes from Pavla Hatza to Baruna Trenka and then to Jurja Žerjavića.
  • Use Trams or buses for Novi Zagreb and to reach the cable car but, otherwise, Zagreb is compact enough for walking – e.g., from the train station to the start of Upper Town is about 20 minutes on foot – and flat.
  • Many places are closed on Sundays, including restaurants, museums, supermarkets, and shopping malls. Check opening times online to avoid disappointment.
  • The city has an abundance of privately-run rooms and apartments. Most have no signs outside the buildings other than, perhaps, a plaque with the unspecified words apartman or sobe (room). Get detailed instructions from the owner about the location and access.
  • Zagreb suffered a destructive earthquake in 2020, the worst since 1880. Only one person was killed, but hundreds of buildings were damaged. The main ones still being rebuilt and closed in 2024 are government buildings, including several museums and the main cathedral. Otherwise, everything is back to normal.

Our Favorite Hotels in Zagreb

5-Star Hotel: Esplanade
Nearly 100 years old and opulent, elegant, and convenient, it stands out from a typical international-brand high-rise.

4-Star Hotel: Hotel Astoria
With a convenient location and charming décor, it oozes sophistication rarely seen in Zagreb and, perhaps, unexpected of this chain.

Boutique Hotel: Le Premier
There is so much to like: spacious, airy rooms with delightful, old-style furniture and attention to detail. Also, excellent service and outstanding facilities.

New Hotel: Met
Modern yet graceful with spacious bedrooms and surprisingly large bathrooms, it’s convenient for transport, dining, and sightseeing.

Cheap Hotel: Hotel Park 45
The top-notch location along the main shopping strip between Lower Town and Upper Town, it’s quiet, spacious, excellent value, and, therefore, popular.

For Families: Hotel Academia
It may look out of place in the historic Upper Town, but the location along a quiet, leafy street and next to a major shopping center cannot be faulted.

For Couples: art’otel
The prime corner position is meters from the main square, and it has been recently renovated, so it checks all the boxes for an intimate getaway. You may never want to leave.

With Views: Boutique Hotel HOH
Perfectly positioned on a hilltop in the Upper Town, views from this adorable and compact hotel match anything offered by a lofty 5-star.

Hotel Pool: The Westin
Massive hotel with all the facilities expected, including a huge heated indoor pool with recently-renovated wellness center with spa and gym attached.

Near the Airport: Hotel Aristos
Offers the sort of hotel size, spacious rooms, and terrific facilities not possible in the city center, yet so accessible to Lower Town and the airport.

About Santorini Dave

Santorini Dave I’m Santorini Dave. I started this site in 2011 with a quick guide on visiting Santorini with kids. Now, my small team and I provide guides to Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Mykonos, Crete, Athens, and all of Greece - as well as favorite places to stay in some of my favorite cities - like London, Paris, Barcelona, Rome, Venice, and Florence. Email me at dave@santorinidave.com.