Best Hotels in Rhodes

About Santorini Dave

Santorini Dave was started in 2011 when I posted a short guide to visiting Santorini with kids. Now, my site publishes regularly updated guides to Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Mykonos, Crete, Athens, and all of Greece.

Questions? Email me at dave@santorinidave.com.

1. Rhodes for Couples

   Hi Dave,

   My partner and I are planning our first trip to Rhodes and would love your advice. We’re trying to get a feel for the island and choose the right base, and your guides have been incredibly helpful so far.
   • What’s the best area to stay in Rhodes for a couple who wants great food, walkability, and atmosphere rather than nightlife or resorts?
   • How many days do you recommend for Rhodes to see the highlights without rushing?
   • Is it better to stay in Rhodes Old Town, Lindos, or elsewhere if we won’t be renting a car the whole time?
   • Are there specific hotels in Rhodes you especially recommend for couples looking for charm and comfort over large all-inclusive resorts?

   Thanks so much for all the work you do. Your site has made planning previous trips to Greece far less overwhelming.

   Best,
   Brett

   1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

      Rhodes is fantastic, but it’s a big island (much bigger than Santorini or Mykonos), so where you stay matters a lot – especially without a car.

      Here is my take:

      1. Best Area for Atmosphere & Food (No Nightlife/Resorts) You want Rhodes Old Town. There is nothing else like it in the Greek islands. It is a living, breathing medieval castle town. You are walking on cobblestones, staying in restored 14th-century buildings, and the atmosphere at night when the cruise ship crowds have left is magical. It has incredible food (and plenty of lousy stuff too), it’s totally walkable, and it feels miles away from the big all-inclusive beach resorts on the rest of the island.

      2. Old Town vs. Lindos vs. Elsewhere (Without a Car) If you are not renting a car, you must stay in Rhodes Town.
      • Why: Rhodes Town is the transportation hub for the entire island. All the buses radiate out from here. If you stay in Lindos (which is beautiful but 50km south), you are somewhat trapped; to visit other parts of the island, you often have to bus back up to Rhodes Town to transfer.
      • The Flaw with Lindos: Lindos is amazing to look at, but it is steep, hot, and packed with day-trippers from 10am to 4pm. It’s a great place to visit for a day or stay for 2 nights, but for a 5-7 day trip without a car, it can feel a bit claustrophobic.
      • “Elsewhere”: Skip it. Places like Faliraki or Ixia are mostly modern beach resort strips. They lack the charm you are looking for.

      3. How Many Days? It really depends on the rest of your itinerary.
      • If you are island hopping: 5 days is the sweet spot. That gives you enough time to see the Old Town, hit Lindos, and do a day trip to Symi without burning out before catching the ferry to your next island.
      • If you are flying in and out (Rhodes only): I would do 7 days. Since this is your main trip, you want it to feel like a proper vacation, not a sprint. The extra two days give you a buffer to sleep in, linger over breakfast, and maybe rent a car for just one day to explore the wilder west coast or visit the wineries in the interior.

      4. Specific Hotel Recommendations (Charm & Comfort) Since you want to avoid the “big resort” feel, look for these boutique spots in the Old Town. They are small, family-run or historic, and very romantic.

      • Kokkini Porta Rossa: (My top pick). It’s an exclusive 6-suite hotel built into the medieval walls. It’s expensive but worth it. The service is personal, and you feel like you are staying in a friend’s mansion, not a hotel.

      • Spirit of the Knights: Eco-friendly boutique hotel in a building the Crusaders actually used. Very atmospheric, quiet courtyards, very high-end.

      • S. Nikolis Historic Boutique Hotel: A bit more affordable but still oozes history. It’s tucked away in a quiet part of the Old Town so you don’t get the noise from the main squares.

      • In Lindos (if you do split your stay): Melenos Art Boutique Hotel. It’s the only place to stay there. It sits on the hill under the Acropolis with stunning sea views.

      My recommendation: Base yourselves in Rhodes Old Town for the whole trip. It solves your transport issue, gives you the best dining options (places like Marco Polo Mansion or Ta Petaladika), and has the most romantic evening vibe. Take the bus or boat to Lindos for a day trip.

2. Rhodes Tips

   Hi Dave, my husband and I will be staying in Rhodes early October for a wedding. We are with the wedding party at Ammades Hotel. History is our passion, and we look forward to exploring the historic Old Town of Rhodes. Are there tours of the castle and medieval settlement, or is this more of a DIY? Neither of us has been to Greece, and we want to absorb as much history, culture, and food as possible! Thank you for your tips (and if you can share some fave local restaurants too, that would be awesome. -Kathleen

   1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

      Early October is a perfect time to visit Rhodes. The weather is fantastic, the sea is still warm enough for swimming, and the summer crowds have gone. Your hotel, Ammades, is excellent. This is a great base for beaches, but for exploring the history you love, you will want to spend most of your time in Rhodes Old Town, which is about a 20-minute drive away.

      Rhodes Old Town: Tour vs. DIY
      You asked whether you should take a tour of the Old Town or explore it on your own. Do both.
      • DIY Exploring is a Must: The Old Town of Rhodes is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the world. It is a living, breathing place, not just a ruin. You should dedicate several hours, or even a full day, to getting lost in its labyrinth of cobblestone alleys. Every turn reveals a hidden courtyard, a quiet church, or a glimpse of local life. This is the best way to absorb its unique atmosphere.
      • A Guided Tour is Also Recommended: While wandering is terrific, the history of the Old Town is incredibly dense and complex, spanning the Knights of St. John, the Ottoman Empire, and more. To truly understand what you are looking at, a guided walking tour is invaluable. A good guide will bring the stones to life with stories of sieges, knights, and sultans. I recommend a small-group walking tour that focuses on the main historical sites.

      Key Sights in Rhodes Old Town
      When you explore, either on your own or with a guide, do not miss these essential sights:
      • The Palace of the Grand Master: This is the “castle” you are referring to. It is a massive, imposing fortress that was the headquarters of the Knights of St. John. The restored interiors and mosaics are magnificent.
      • The Street of the Knights: An immaculately preserved medieval street where the knights lived in “inns” based on their country of origin. Walking down this street feels like stepping back 600 years.
      • The Archaeological Museum: Housed in the impressive former Hospital of the Knights, this museum contains fantastic treasures discovered all over Rhodes and the surrounding islands.
      • Walk the Medieval Walls: For a unique perspective, you can walk along the top of the massive city walls. The entrance is near the Palace of the Grand Master, and it is usually open on weekday mornings.

      Beyond the Old Town (For History Lovers)
      With your passion for history, you must explore beyond Rhodes Town. The best way to do this is to rent a car for at least one or two days. It gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace.
      • Lindos (A Must-Do): This is arguably the most stunning sight on the island. It is a beautiful white-washed village clinging to a hillside, crowned by an ancient acropolis and a crusader castle. The views from the top are breathtaking. Go early in the morning (be there by 9:00 AM) to beat the tour buses.
      • Ancient Kamiros: For true history buffs, this is a fantastic site. It is the ruin of an entire ancient Doric city, sometimes called the “Pompeii of Greece.” It is far less crowded than Lindos and offers a genuine sense of life in ancient times.

      My Favorite Restaurants in Rhodes
      You will eat well in Rhodes. Here are a few of my favorite spots that focus on authentic Greek food.
      • To Megiston (Old Town): A wonderful, family-run taverna tucked away on a quieter square inside the Old Town. It serves classic, well-prepared Greek and Rhodian dishes. It feels authentic in a sea of touristy options. (There are many shitty restaurants in Rhodes Town, be thoughtful in your choices.)
      • Koukos (New Town): Located just outside the walls in the “New Town,” this place is a local institution. It is open nearly 24/7, serving traditional food in a quirky, folkloric setting. Always busy with Greeks, which is a great sign.
      • Artemida Taverna (Psinthos): If you rent a car and explore the interior, drive to the village of Psinthos for lunch here. It is famous for its grilled meats and traditional recipes. A truly local experience.
      • Manolis Taverna (Faliraki): For a great meal near your hotel, this is a reliable and popular choice in Faliraki known for good quality, traditional Greek food.

      Hope that helps.

3. Lindos from Old Town

   Is it necessary to book a tour to Lindos from Old Town when visiting in mid-June, or is it manageable to do on our own?

   1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

      Visiting Lindos from Rhodes Old Town doesn’t require a tour, as it’s very manageable to go independently using the affordable public bus (factor in schedules and the walk from the stop) or a rental car for maximum flexibility (though parking can be challenging by mid-June). While DIY offers freedom, organized bus or boat tours provide hassle-free convenience and guided commentary if you prefer ease over setting your own pace. Ultimately, a tour isn’t necessary, so choose the option that best fits your budget and travel style. For my tastes, if it’s a site I’m really interested in, then I do a tour, if it’s more of a fun activity to do for the day, then I go DIY.

4. Itinerary for Rhodes

   Hi Dave, you must be a very busy man with all these questions we ask you. So here are my questions. We will be in Rhodes, Greece for 6 days: (21 May-27 May)
   1. What are the best day trips to other islands from Rhodes?
   2. Is it worth going to Turkey for the day?
   3. Should we hire a car?
   4. What are the best restaurants in Rhodes?
   5. And anything really special we should see?
   We are from Australia. Hence we are very adventurous!

   1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

      I love Rhodes in May. It’s up and running after the Winter break and the weather is not yet torrid as it can be in mid-Summer.

      Best daytrips from Rhodes to nearby islands? The most obvious one I’d recommend and most-touted is to Symi – it is the closest. Organised trips typically take you first to the Panormitis monastery on the southern tip then after an hour or take you on to the main harbour town of Symi itself. Visitors typically amble around the port – maybe take the steep climb to Ano Symi (remember the postman does this every day!) have lunch and take the excursion craft back to Rhodes. Since you are adventurous types, you could take the earliest connecting regular ferry to Symi Port, hire a motor bike and head on up the winding road over the top of the mountain and visit Panormitis (19kms) yourselves.

      It’s a spectacular ride though you will need to be careful on the curves winding down to Panormitis bay. Take a ride to the little village of Emporeios (4 kms) enjoying the dry and stark coastline and on your way back stop off at little Nos beach (with cafeteria/taverna) just before you hit the first houses of Symi.

      Other islands you may consider are Tilos – much less touristed and low-key and doable via the Dodecanese catamarans and also possible with a bit of planning the island of Chalki, which is really better for an over-nighter. Tilos is really on the main port of Livadia and the main inland village of Megalo Chorio. Hire a scooter (or little car), pick you way round the island and lunch at the fishing port of Agios Antonios, or on Eristos beach (where you can best swim). Chalki is very pretty and if you can manage a day trip with the Dodecanese Catamarans it’s worth it.

      Turkey for a day? It’s certainly doable and you’ll need to look into the schedules of the boats and catamarans, but you’ll probably not get to do more than wander around Marmaris for a day (and it’s a big town) unless you can pre-arrange an excursion out of Marmaris.

      Hiring a car in Rhodes? Yes and no. If you are based in the Old or New Town of Rhodes and you don’t plan to tour, then you can do without a car. Public transport (bus) is good and inexpensive and you can swim in the New Town quite easily. If you want to see Rhodes Island, then a car is a very good idea – at least for a couple of days. Local agents such as Triton Holidays are very good at getting favourable car rental deals and arranging local tickets and accommodation in general – including Turkey.

      Best restaurants in Rhodes? There are many excellent ones and many below-average touristy ones. Here are three tips. In the New Town give Koozina a go. Very, very nice. In the Old Town don’t miss Marco Polo Café and for the ultimate in haute cuisine (if you are down that way) try the à-la-carte restaurant at the Lindos Blue Luxury Hotel in Lindos.

      Special things to see? The Old Town. Allow plenty of time to savour and explore. Adventurous people will venture to the Deep South and probably end up at Prasonisi the southernmost point with a wide sandy beach and tavernas. Down here is quite different to the North (and you will need a car). Seek lunch at the Taverna Platanos in Lachania where you will be excused for thinking you are not in Rhodes, or in one of the rustic taverns such as Bakis Bros in the mountain village of Embonas.

      Best beach on the island is probably Tsambika Beach on the East side. Get here in your hire car; choose a beach taverna and order a cold beer or frappé; swim and relax when you are ready. Nice lunch to be had in the garden environment of Athiri Restaurant on the approach road to Tsambika Beach.

5. Rhodes Lindos Blu Hotel

   Hi! Thanks so much for putting together this wonderful guide. My fiancee and I plan on travelling to Greece for our honeymoon, and we’ve found your guide of tremendous help. I did have one questions in regards to Hotels in Rhodes.

   In my searches in google, a hotel that constantly pops up is Lindos Blu. It has good tripadvisor ratings, and comes up in a lot of “best of” hotel guides across the internet. I was curious if you had ever been and what your take on it was?

   Thanks,
   Jon

   1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

      Lindos Blu is an exclusive, adults-only small resort that vies for the title of best overall boutique resort on Rhodes. Perched on a hillside overlooking expansive Vlycha Bay the hotel also has perhaps Rhodes’ most respected restaurant. Architecturally modernistic it has excellent views and a growing reputation as one of the best hotels in Rhodes.

6. Best Island To Visit After Mykonos and Santorini

   Hi! My finance and I are taking our honeymoon to Greece and debating on Milos, Naxos, or Rhodes for our third island after Mykonos and Santorini. Which island would you recommend for best beaches and relaxation? Thank you.

   1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

      For beaches and relaxation definitely Naxos. Milos is wonderful but is more of an active visit as you really need to explore to reveal its charms. Rhodes is beautiful but much busier and much harder to get to (from Mykonos or Santorini) than Naxos.

7. Good Hotel near Rhodes Airport

   Any recommendations for a good hotel near the Rhodes airport – or one with a free shuttle to the airport, as I have an early morning flight and want to stay close to the airport.

   Claudia

   1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

      Old House (apartments) are cheap, clean, and good value. If you have little luggage you could walk to the airport or owner Michael will give you a ride for a small fee.

8. Rhodes-Crete Ferry in July

   hi Dave,

   We are going to be in Rhodes next July for a week and are hoping to go to Crete by ferry, do you know how often ferries go to Crete from Rhodes or would it be a better option to go via one of the other Cyclades islands and work our way down to Crete that way?
   If that is best option which island do you recommend going to from Rhodes which would be quickest option to Crete?

   rgds
   michael cammerino

   1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

      There are 2 ferries per week (with Anek) between Rhodes and Crete – it’s a fairly long ferry ride depending on the route (9 to 13 hours). In summer there can sometimes be one or two more ferries/week. There are also direct flights in summer with Skyexpress. If you went via the Cyclades then Santorini is the best option.

9. Good Rhodes Hotel with Pool

   We will be a family of grandparents and grown grandchildren visiting Greece for 10days. We were thinking of renting a boat to travel from Athens to Santorini to Crete to Rhodes where we are meeting up w another part of family June 1st. Does this strike you as “best route” or do you suggest flying betw islands instead?
   Also, what is best upscale Rhodes hotel with a pool and yet still able to walk to Old Town (15min walk or less) and also be near a beach? Am I delusional? Thank you so much for your help.

   Julie

   1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

      Try Bellevue Suites in Rhodes Town. Close to the beach, walking distance to Old Town, and (smallish) pool. Two-bedroom suites sleep 4 and have kitchenette.

10. Good Hotel in Rhodes Town

    Hi, we’re going to Rhodes for a week from October 16th with our daughter who’s 15 months old. We’re looking for a hotel in Rhodes new town that provides parking, since we plan to rent a car and we understand that there’s no driving in the old town. We’re also looking for an authentic Greek experience, meaning mostly friendly staff and good Greek food. Ideally both breakfast and dinner should be available at the hotel. Could you please offer us some advice? Thanks!

    Laura Levy

    1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

       The hotels with lots of character and a Greek feel are in the Old Town. In the New Town the Best Western Plaza Hotel has a good central location and a nice pool. There’s a decent restaurant for breakfast, lunch, and dinner (and better restaurants are an easy walk away). Free parking at the public parking lot is a 5 minute walk. The beach and Old Town are about a 10 minute walk.

11. AquaGrand or Elysium

    Hi
    I will be going to Rhodes next week, I am between the AquaGrand in Lindos and the Elysium Resort! Wich one you think would be better for a 60 years old couple??
    Thank you
    Cynthia

    1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

       Both are beautiful resorts with great pools and good sea swimming. But neither have much within walking distance and the beaches are pebbly more than sandy (the Elysium has the more sandy of the two). Elysium is 15 minutes from Rhodes Town (and the ferry port), while AquaGrand is almost an hour’s drive. The Elysium is also closer to the airport.

12. Best Beach Towns on Rhodes

    We are staying for a couple of days at the end of September, beginning of October in Old Town, Rhodes (after visiting other locations) and would like to a few beach days at the end of our trip. Are there any nice beach hotels–actually on the beach–in Rhodes? Or are we better off staying in Lindos or elsewhere and simply exploring beaches by day? We don’t love those big glitzy resorts, are looking for somewhere with charm or at least a bit of chic. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    Deborah

    1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

       Well, a couple of places come to mind – or rather jump off the page – and they, plus one other option, probably match what you are after. You didn’t say where you are staying in the Old Town, but there are some pretty good choices and as you are planning to travel at the end of September to the beginning of October, accommodation rates should be cheaper. First up, consider staying at the Kokkini Porta in the Old Town itself. It’s a newbie boutique hotel that will make you feel very pampered. Next up, you could still stay in Rhodes Town, but in the New Town and be more or less next to the beach – and a nice beach it is too. Have a look at the website of the Hotel Mediterranean. It’s at the northern end of the New Town – just past the casino – and is a great duo combo option (Old Town nearby and beach on your doorstep). Either way, you are not far from a beach and Rhodes’ town beach is actually very attractive.

       You mention something chic (something special perhaps?) so here’s a tip. Down south is a luxury complex with your own private suites bearing names such as “River Passage Pool Suite”, “Ottoman Gardens Junior Suite” or, for the romantically inclined, enjoy your own jacuzzi and King sized four-poster bed in the “Ottoman Gardens Honey Suite”. This secluded hideaway with private beach is called Lindian Village and it’s not far from Lindos. It’s better than Lindos itself because Lindos is not actually on a beach – you have to walk, to one side of the village or the other.

13. Rhodes in Late September

    Hi! I am just planning my Greece trip and need help with Rhodes! Will be in Rhodes at the end of September, from Sunday afternoon to Thursday afternoon. Traveling with my 65 yr old mom and sister, so we are looking to do activities but also relax (but can’t do too much stairs for my mom). Should we base ourselves in only one part of Rhodes (near Old Town)? Is it easy to get around the island if we stay here and just take taxis everywhere? Or should we stay somewhere else and get a car? We are a bit nervous of driving there (we are from NY, and I think we can handle it, but you never know!). Or should we stay in two different places?

    We are also going to Crete and Santorini…I love lounging by the pool but my mom and sister don’t care as much for it. So I do want at least 2-3 days at a nice pool resort for me during our trip. Is it better to do this in Rhodes, Crete, or Santorini? We are ending in Santorini so figured I would schedule this relaxing time then…

    And last question, we will need to go from Santorini to Athens back to NY in early October. Our flight back to NY leaves Athens at 1230 pm. Should we fly back from Santorini to Athens very early that morning (like 830 am) or should we aim to get back to Athens the day before? I am not sure how reliable the flights are….Just thought I’d ask!

    Thanks for any advice.

    1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

       By the end of September things should be quietening down in Rhodes particularly the further away you go from Rhodes Town (Old and New) so you may care to base yourselves nearer the action of Rhodes Town. Rhodes is easy to get around but it is a big island and while taxis are good for getting around the New Town (on foot is the way to go in the Old Town) it will get very expensive if you use taxis for day trips.

       If you are from New York, driving in Rhodes will be like a ride out around the Hamptons – easy! It’s not like Athens or Thessaloniki: it’s busy enough around Rhodes Town and there are one-way streets to confuse you, but driving out of Rhodes on the main highways is a pleasant experience and you can hire a car at a very reasonable price by the end of September.

       If you stay in the main town, make a point of staying in the Old Town as it is like stepping back in time: very atmospheric and old-word with narrow cobbled streets and alleyways that disappear round corners leading to somewhere tempting. You can’t park your car in the Old Town, so you’ll have to walk to it each day outside the walls of the moat.

       It will take about two hours to drive from one end of the island to the other. The ’touristy’ side is the east coast, while the west coast is less developed. You an easily drive across the island through the hill villages. All road signs are in Greek and English.

       Any island would do for sunbathing. It’s great to sit by the pool in Santorini and look out at the caldera. On the other hand, pools tend to be smaller there than on other islands (and hotels with a pool and view cost more) – not sure if that’s a concern.

       Flights are fairly reliable. But allow at least 3 hours in Athens as delays are common for Greek flights.

14. Best Place to Stay on Rhodes

    Hi Dave,
    What town on Rhodes island is the best to stay in around the beginning of June. We are looking for somewhere with a lovely view, not too busy but not isolated at the same time?
    We took your advice when we went to Santorini…stayed in Imerovigli and it was just perfect.
    Your advice is very much appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Dave

    1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

       In general terms Rhodes’ east coast is the best coast. It sports the best beaches and is usually protected from the prevailing northern weather and the meltemi wind that can make north-facing resorts somewhat bracing. If we exclude Rhodes Town – which is still a nice option – especially if you choose carefully in the Old Town, you have a string of resorts with sandy beaches running down the coast as far as Gennadi.

       You do mention a town – which probably also means village – so that limits the search to a handful of places. The first places that come to mind are the adjoining communities of Lindos and Pefki. Lindos is busy though not crazy-busy in June like it will be in August. It is the jewel in the eastern flank of Rhodes: pretty – too pretty for its own good in full Summer – but certainly very atmospheric, with labyrinthine alleyways, plodding passenger donkeys, glitzy boutiques, and romantic rooftop night-time dining. There are two decent beaches to escape to, but so do the day crowds that come by the boatload to enjoy Lindos’ narrow streets and folksy ambiance. Pefki is a little less frenetic and ‘different’. It has scattered low-rise appartments to rent plus the odd tourist resort complex, is more open in its feel, and is not touristy-folksy like Lindos and you are likely to find a place to stay that is cheaper than in Lindos itself. Neither Lindos nor Pefki are isolated though they are both around 50km from Rhodes town.

       A little further south is the compact beachside village of Gennadi. The beach here is pebbled, but the waters are pristine and clean. It’s a community that lives independently and essentially apart from the more mainstream tourism that starts to peter out at Lindos and Pefki.

       Back up the coast and back to sand the next and final suggestion would be the extended resort village of Stegna. It is popular, has a long sandy beach, and still retains a small-town feel. It might meet your requirements for a ‘not too busy’ and ‘not too isolated’ getaway spot.

       1. Dave

          Brilliant…that’s great help to us Dave. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

          Kind regards,
          Dave

15. Day Trip to Rhodes from Athens

    I have one extra day in Greece. I can either spend it in Athens or go to Rhodes or stay in Mykonos. Is a day trip to Rhodes (from Athens) worth it?

    Sneha

    1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

       Rhodes is a wonderful island with lots too see so, yes, you’d certainly love it. But, just to be clear, you would have to fly from Athens (it’s a long way from Athens to Rhodes by ferry) so you’re looking at a flight in the morning to Rhodes and then a flight back in the evening. You’d have a full day of travel. But, it’s doable. That said, if you were willing to do something like that, then I’d do the same thing but for Santorini which is easier to see in a day than Rhodes. And the flight to Santorini is only 45 minutes instead of 65 minutes from Athens to Rhodes.

16. Best Beaches on Rhodes

    What are the best beaches on Rhodes? I will be with my 12 year old daughter but it doesn’t have to be “kid-friendly”. Just nice sand, and nice water for swimming. A friend told me one side of Rhodes had great beaches and the other side not so good, but from my research I can’t tell what side is better or if that’s even true. Thanks, Liz.

    1. Santorini Dave The Hotel Expert

       Rhodes’ beach quality is determined by their location. As a general rule beaches along the northwest side of the island are more exposed, scraggy, and inferior to beautiful beaches along the southeast side of the island. This is primarily due to the influence of the northerly ‘meltemi’ wind that scours the Aegean sea during the summer months. The only possible exception may be the beaches abutting the coastal resort strip between Rhodes Town and the airport where they don’t see so much of the weather. As you move to the southwest they tend to be thin, rocky, and without the sandy coves that punctuate the southeast coastline.

       Starting with the beaches closest to Rhodes town, the first one is actually in Rhodes Town and it is just fine. This is the town beach (of Rhodes Town) in front of the Casino. It’s clean, has umbrellas and loungers, cafés and restaurants and changing rooms. Considering it’s convenience to town this is a great beach. Next beach up needs a bit of a drive (or a local bus), but it’s worth the effort, and that is Kallithea beach (10kms from Rhodes Town). It’s little more than two sandy coves with a rocky headland under the hulk of the former and now restored Italian spa. There’s a scuba diving outfit based here too. From here on the long resort hotel strip begins and while the beaches are OK (if exposed) they are the almost exclusive reserve of the resort hotels. Faliraki (15kms) is ostensibly the beach centre of eastern Rhodes. The beaches are OK – long and straight and pleasant enough but Faliraki is full of package tourists. Not far south from Faliraki is the eponymously named Anthony Quinn beach (17kms) – really two beaches strung on either side of a bent sausage-like peninsula. It’s pretty and well protected and consequently very popular.

       Traganou, Afandou, and Kolymbia beaches follow next and constitute a long stretch of sand from just south of Faliraki to Cape Vagia. It used to be fairly undeveloped (though that is changing) and there are long stretches of pebble and sand beaches that see much fewer visitors than elsewhere. Of the three Kolymbia beach (24kms) has the best development so you might want to head there if you are down this way. Next up is probably the best beach on Rhodes: Tsambika Beach (28kms). Enclosed by widely spread headlands upon one of which is the monastery of Tsambika, this beach scene has a low-key collection of beach bars and cafés and just the right mix of sand, clean water, and a fun atmosphere. Noteworthy also is the more intimate Agathi beach (40kms) and perhaps my second favourite just north of the village of Haraki. It is small, cosy, and generally only sought out by those in the know. This one is worth a visit too. Lindos (50kms) is next on the list and while its north side beaches are just fine as is the cosier St Paul’s beach to the south, they get the mass crowds, and might not be everyone’s scene. If you are visiting Lindos, then it’s certainly worth a visit.

       Blink and you might just miss minuscule Stafylia beach that will appear suddenly through your windscreen as you round a bend just 6km short of the southern village of Kiotari (60kms). It’s the last sandy beach for a while. South of here the scene changes with pebbles taking over from sand at Gennadi (63kms) and 15km further south Plimmyri has a protected grey sand beach with at least one fish taverna for lunch. For utter isolation (look for the church of Agios Pavlos next to a grain silo and in amongst some derelict buildings after Plimmyri) there is a dirt track to a beach which I think is also called Agios Pavlos where there is nothing – but water and sand. The twin beach of Prasonisi (91kms) marks the end of the island and while there is a nice beach, it is mainly a windsurfer scene and perhaps not for family bathers. Most people come here because it is like Lands End in the UK. It has to be ‘done’.